Something I always find odd. I know they are heavily used by lots of people but if you put a novice in a boat with sail controls that don't work they won't be able to act on the advice you give them. It was also one of the suggested reasons people don't use their lasers - badly rigged and don't know how to improve them.
I used to be a member of the OU Sailing Club and used the shared laser they owned. Most of the membership were fairly new to sailing so I ended up rerigging the laser to get it to a fair spec but still easy to rig. I ended up covering anything that shouldn't be undone in electrical tape to ensure it was always in a good rigging state for the next user.
Where does it say it is legal to drill new holes??
I think the question that people need to ask is whether they are checking it on the water or on land before they decide that the brake doesn't work. Just because it looks like it won't work on land doesn't necessarily mean it doesn't actually work on the water. SNIP
I sailed my boat several times with the new brake slid all the way forward secured by the original screws. Aside from the pretty blue plastic being more attractive than the black W, it was useless as there was absolutely no contact between the white insert of the brake and the daggerboard. So I'm allowing the marinetex filling to thoroughly cure before drilling new holes about 7mm further forward. Perhaps the engineers responsible for this design are ex-Toyota. ;-)
Where does it say it is legal to drill new holes??
do u still have to use the bunjee to tie it in?
does it work better than the bunjee?
I think the problem is that the bungee and the daggerboard brake are mutually exclusive. The bungee pulls the board away from the brake. I think the bungee is an afterthought and that Kirby/Bruce expected the brake to work by itself. Like everything else!
Next time out I'm going to try passing the bungee astern and under the hiking strap. I hope that will hold the board against the brake and keep it from rising that maddening few inches. Has anyone tried this?
I don't read the rule as prohibiting what I described as long as the required "safety line' is attached as the rule describes, but ....
OK, so I fit the new brake, encountered the issue where the old holes don't seem to allow the brake to move forward far enough to be functional, and thus came to read this thread. I noticed that the forward edge of my centerboard trunk shows significant wear, and see several references to "lining" the front of the slot with something. Could someone elaborate on this? I think I aught to consider this before re-positioning the brake.
Thanks!
One layer of any material of maximum 2mm
thickness and of a maximum size of 30mm x
30mm may be applied at the top front corner of
the centreboard case.
What are commonly used materials? I'm thinking about some black sheet rubber I have lying around, if I can glue it on successfully.