I have the curved edge so this is Out I think…. But the backing block did drop off to the bottom. I’ve got one of those tiny little inspection cameras I’m going to try to get a look at it. Will report back!You cant get a thin piece of glass in a slot at an angle then up to the bottom of the deck. Plus that area is not flat because of what would be left behind from the plate that is not there.
If you dont want an access hole take the trim off and split the seam and pry up the deck and slide in an aluminum plate. The epoxy the deck back down. This assumes you have the alumininum trim type boat. The curved edge would be more of a challange.
Thanks so much these pictures give me I really good idea of what’s underneath the deck there, I needed to see this!If you want to avoid the plate, the curved edge can be cleanly broke free. Heat and a smooth edged vibrating tool. If you go back far enough you can get enough separation to work the plate into position.
I repaired a bow last year. Here are pictures showing what the area looks like if that helps. They inside of the hule is kind of sloppy as the glass it brought together at the bow and they were not neat about it.
I also have removed a bunch of the epoxy seam fixing my other fish. Then put it back together with Thixo. I used the corner of the scraper tool on my oscillating tool and cleared a bunch of epoxy then sanded with 60 grit emory paper.
I am guessing you can use string run through the holes to pull and glue a new plate in position. The catch being figuring out the shape that will fit flush to the bottom of the deck. There will be bumps from the crappy quick hold downs used at the factory. Little pieces of glass run across the plate. You need the plate to fit flush to the deck. Given all these contrants, the deck hole becomes the simpler solution. In all honestly on my own boat I would likely try to separate the seam and get enough distance to get a plate in position.
I do have an oscillating tool and plenty of glass and fillers West System….Maybe this is my opportunity to try out thixo. !If you want to avoid the plate, the curved edge can be cleanly broke free. Heat and a smooth edged vibrating tool. If you go back far enough you can get enough separation to work the plate into position.
I repaired a bow last year. Here are pictures showing what the area looks like if that helps. They inside of the hule is kind of sloppy as the glass it brought together at the bow and they were not neat about it.
I also have removed a bunch of the epoxy seam fixing my other fish. Then put it back together with Thixo. I used the corner of the scraper tool on my oscillating tool and cleared a bunch of epoxy then sanded with 60 grit emory paper.
I am guessing you can use string run through the holes to pull and glue a new plate in position. The catch being figuring out the shape that will fit flush to the bottom of the deck. There will be bumps fromthe crappy quick hold downs used at the factory. Little pieces of glass run across the plate. You need the plate to fit flush to the deck. Given all these contrants, the deck hole becomes the simpler solution. In all honestly on my own boat I would likely try to separate the seam and get enough distance to get a plate in position.
TWOAfter my two bow handle repairs, using my stainless steel and cutting board backing plates, I've decided that wood is the best choice.
My latest approach here:
New (to me) Sunfish. Need repairs?
So, a friend gave me his old sunfish that had been sitting outside for quite awhile. The sail, rudder and dagger board were in a shed. As I was cleaning off the grime and lichen at the bow, I heard some cracking noises. Then I saw some lines in the paint that weren't there before. So, how...sailingforums.com
(Posts with photos, see # 23 and # 24.
Earlier:
Broken bow handle-76 sunfish
Had this happen on a recently acquired sunfish, I suspect the wood rotted and the screws were then only attached to the deck. Does anyone have experience with this repair?sailingforums.com
A little touch-up next Spring, and it will be undectable--even strengthening the side while doing it!
Really nice glass work!!If you want to avoid the plate, the curved edge can be cleanly broke free. Heat and a smooth edged vibrating tool. If you go back far enough you can get enough separation to work the plate into position.
I repaired a bow last year. Here are pictures showing what the area looks like if that helps. They inside of the hule is kind of sloppy as the glass it brought together at the bow and they were not neat about it.
I also have removed a bunch of the epoxy seam fixing my other fish. Then put it back together with Thixo. I used the corner of the scraper tool on my oscillating tool and cleared a bunch of epoxy then sanded with 60 grit emory paper.
I am guessing you can use string run through the holes to pull and glue a new plate in position. The catch being figuring out the shape that will fit flush to the bottom of the deck. There will be bumps from the crappy quick hold downs used at the factory. Little pieces of glass run across the plate. You need the plate to fit flush to the deck. Given all these contrants, the deck hole becomes the simpler solution. In all honestly on my own boat I would likely try to separate the seam and get enough distance to get a plate in position.
Also I’m thinking isnt there an angled thin oscillating tool blade that you could slip in a slot and slide along the underside and cut those straps and tabs loose that held the blocks in?? Just an idea… I’ll mess around with it in the near future and see what I can come up with. Thanks so much for your input!!!If you want to avoid the plate, the curved edge can be cleanly broke free. Heat and a smooth edged vibrating tool. If you go back far enough you can get enough separation to work the plate into position.
I repaired a bow last year. Here are pictures showing what the area looks like if that helps. They inside of the hule is kind of sloppy as the glass it brought together at the bow and they were not neat about it.
I also have removed a bunch of the epoxy seam fixing my other fish. Then put it back together with Thixo. I used the corner of the scraper tool on my oscillating tool and cleared a bunch of epoxy then sanded with 60 grit emory paper.
I am guessing you can use string run through the holes to pull and glue a new plate in position. The catch being figuring out the shape that will fit flush to the bottom of the deck. There will be bumps from the crappy quick hold downs used at the factory. Little pieces of glass run across the plate. You need the plate to fit flush to the deck. Given all these contrants, the deck hole becomes the simpler solution. In all honestly on my own boat I would likely try to separate the seam and get enough distance to get a plate in position.
There's nothing quite as rewarding as "messing around with boats"!Just an idea… I’ll mess around with it in the near future and see what I can come up with. Thanks so much for your input!!!