Metal Disk in Mast Step

L

LarsenCanvas

Guest
I have a fairly new boat that I bought used. This boat doesn't have a metal disk in the mast step, so I bought one. Now I'm wondering how it should be installed. I'm guessing if I just drop it in the mast step it might fall out or slide around. Should it be epoxy'd in? Any suggestions how to do that. Should I just try to pour some epoxy in the mast step and then drop the disk in? Or should I put some epoxy on the disk and then somehow drop it down in there without having it flip over? If this is the method how do you keep it from flipping over?
 
Hi,
if the boat is new, she should have this disk already. It is unter a layer of gelcoat at the bottom in the mast step. You can prove that f.e. with a small instrument (looks like a sort of pencil) for location of electric-cables in walls. Such an instrument, you may get relatively cheap at an electronic-shop or home depot.

Never the less:
>>>...
if you want to put that disk you bought into the maststep, do fix it with "3M 5200 fast glue" or "3M 5200".
To glue the dik in clean out the mast step base with a rag and acetone and wait for ten minutes for any residual acetone to evaporate.
For better adhesion, ductape a hunk of 80 grit sandpaper to the end of your top section and scuff up the base of the mast step. Make sure the paper is only exposed on the end of the spar. Do not scratch the side of the tube. Hose the maststep out and let it dry and then wipe with acetone as above. For better adhesion you can als sand the disk and wash it.

Glueing the disk in place is a bit tricky. Put the glue on the maststep base, not to the disk. Put in the disk and load it with some pressure, f.e. with the lower section. You not put in too much glue, or press the disk down so hard, that the glue oozes out on the top of the disk. Then, let cure for one day.

If any glue or sealant or resin oozzes out around the disk, you should clean it with a rag wrapped around a long stick. If using resin, use a little acetone, too. The corner of the end cap of a sail-batten also prvodes a nice, rounded edge for final fairing of any adhesive visible from the top. ...<<<

">>>...<<<" is taken from a text of drLaser.org-website that now is offline
Ciao
LooserLu

P.S.:
Personally, here in GER, I made the best experience with "Pattex-Stabilit-Express". It's a special 2 component epoxy from Henkel Industries. (We not have this "3M"-Epoxy here.)
 
There boat is a 2002 boat. The gelcoat at the bottom of the mast step is scratched a little, and i don't see any metel down there.
 
I remind to some discussion, we had a TLF in 2004 to that aspect. In result of that, I advise to get such an instrument, that I told above (perhaps your neighbour has it and will borrow it for some minutes to you) and make the test. There are also big instruments of that I told on the market, then you can do the test from outside of the hull, at the area where the base of the mast step is glued to the hull.
Having 2 disk's in the mastep will not be tolerated by the classrule. Be aware of this. Normally a boat, produced in 2002, has already such a disk inside.
Ciao
LooserLu
 
Vanguard 2002's will have the metal wear plate installed already - it is under the gelcoat and it takes quite a bit of wear in the step for it to be exposed...
Did you try checking for it with a magnet ?
 
LarsenCanvas said:
There boat is a 2002 boat. The gelcoat at the bottom of the mast step is scratched a little, and i don't see any metel down there.
Click to expand...


If its a 2002 Vanguard built boat I will GUARANTY you there a plate in the mast step under a little gelcoat and possibly a little chopped strand. Do not put another one......
 
Looks like my serial number starts with 0QT, so it must be a Vanguard boat. Thanks, guess I will not put another disk down there.
 
I am working on replacing a mast step wear disk. (This is on an older laser.)

Any recommendations for techniques to remove the old caulking????
 
I used 5200 to put my plate into the bottom of the step. I guess its worn in the middle more as the plate fell out after a week or 2.... Will try again this year
 
Zac said:
I used 5200 to put my plate into the bottom of the step. I guess its worn in the middle more as the plate fell out after a week or 2.... Will try again this year
Click to expand...
Hi again,
I had the same problem in the last year. I was able to get the plate out again (it just fell out of the mast step while cartopping the hull...Sorry Rob E, I have no good ideas to get yours out of the maststep without damaging the tube). I cleaned the base of the maststep with sanding and acetone etc. Then I let dry the hull for a while (1-2 days). Then I took this "Stabilit-Express" (Search at Google for: Stabilit-Express Henkel) and did the work again as told above (this glue is a 2 component glue that gets most strong aft some minutes. I call it "the final-chance glue" and use it since in was sailing Opti). I went out again sailing for several times in realy heavy winds and choppy waves. the steel-disk still holds at the base of the mast step.
Perhaps you can get this glue there where you live. Here is a pic of it.

Ciao
LooserLu
 

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LooserLu said:
Hi again,
I had the same problem in the last year. I was able to get the plate out again (it just fell out of the mast step while cartopping the hull...Sorry Rob E, I have no good ideas to get yours out of the maststep without damaging the tube). I cleaned the base of the maststep with sanding and acetone etc. Then I let dry the hull for a while (1-2 days). Then I took this "Stabilit-Express" (Search at Google for: Stabilit-Express Henkel) and did the work again as told above (this glue is a 2 component glue that gets most strong aft some minutes. I call it "the final-chance glue" and use it since in was sailing Opti). I went out again sailing for several times in realy heavy winds and choppy waves. the steel-disk still holds at the base of the mast step.
Perhaps you can get this glue there where you live. Here is a pic of it.

Ciao
LooserLu
Click to expand...

Thanks!
 
Regarding my earlier question about removing adhesive / caulking from the mast step, I found that just rotating the lower mast section in the step did a fair job of removing the old caulk.

FYI: I was surprised to find 5200 at Home Depot.
 
5200>>>

The red and white fast cure tubes are the way to go. The regular 5200 takes at least a week to reach full strength.
Moisture helps hasten the cure or 5200 . Not soaking wet!! Just hang a damp NOT DRIPPING towell right by the step. Don't block the air flow.

About the tube of 5200. Open it for as short a period as possible then SEAL IT!!!

You can simply screw the cap on the small "toothpast size" tubes.

The stuff will last a long time after opening ONLY if you DO not seal any of the air exposed sealant inside that cap.

Do a quick last squeeze. Wipe it off. Hurry...close the cap.
 
Do a quick last squeeze. Wipe it off. Hurry...close the cap.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Gouv, for your advice.

The tube I have hasn't hardened yet. I hope that means that it is still good. I used it when I upgraded my fittings a few months ago.

Interesting that it wants to be kept damp. Too bad I didn't do this earlier when we were having record rainfall. I probably won't be able to keep it damp for long, since we are now into the warm, dry weather.
 
will you get nailed if you just cut a stainless steel disk yourself or do you have to have a laser disk? I ask because the laser dealer around here is a 2.5 hr drive away and the order time is slow as molasas
 
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