Mast Step Problem

G

gleninst

New Member
I recently purchased a 1973 Sunfish in need of repairs. The mast has abraded the bottom of the mast step well to the point where (2) dime-sized holes have been punctured on either side of the keelson. My thought is to place the boat rightside up, level it, tape the holes on the outside (so the resin does not pour thru), and merely pour resin into the well to a level that covers the holes. Comments? Yes, I have purchased a bottom cap for the mast!!! Thax. Paul
 
Seems to me if you pour resin in the mast tube, you will fill up the hole that the knob on the mast cap fits down in. I believe the use of this knob helps the mast tube from breaking loose. Is the depression that the knob fits into missing? If it is I thinks the fix is going to be quite involved.
 
I have owned a lot of Sunfish masts and none have ever had a knob on the flat mast cap that goes into the mast tube. I think a flat bottom to the mast tube will be fine. ONly thing I might do in this repair is stuff a little bit of fiberglass cloth into the dime-sized holes so if the boat gets dropped on a rock the glass will hold the resin together and keep it from cracking or shattering. Be sure not to fill the mast tube so that the resin is higher than the bottom of the tube used to be, or the mast will not settle as far into the hull as it should. BB
 
The plastic bottom mast cap that I have is flat on the bottom with radiused edges. I don't see any knob. By pouring the resin in the well (tube)you would obtain a flat surface upon which the flat mast cap would rest. Am I missing something? Thanx for the input. Paul
 
If I were doing this repair as you describe, I'd pour a ¼-cup of water or alcohol into the top of the mast step, to make sure that a ¼-cup of fluid comes out! (Use a hair dryer to dry the area before starting.)

Photos I've seen of the internal base area of the mast step tube show a fiberglass cloth reinforcement that is a little sloppy in execution. It's possible that some (or all) of your resin might seep inside the hull.

Unless actually bonding something, cured resin is brittle and not particularly strong: it'd be better to add a special thickener or cut up some scrap cloth to make a paste—the latter is messy but strong.

After curing, you can expect to find a tiny air pocket (a bubble) left after lifting the tape, but that can be touched up. Try poking a tiny pin hole in the tape to allow the resin to fill in fully.
 
I have cut an access port in front of the daggerboard slot and found the internals to be reasonably dry. Therefore I am working on the premise that the integrity of the tube itself and the bond to the bottom of the hull is OK. I intend to supplement the resin with strenghtening filler. Thanx for all the help. Paul
 
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