Wooden rudder is useless for racing using the factory cross-section shown on the plans.
Guaranteed to go Braaaattttttt. . . every time. Giving it a true airfoil shape would help
more than the rudder angle.
I then ran the strips through the thickness planer. I took off only a very small fraction on each pass, as I want to be sure when I am done I am at 3/4" thickness.
The rudder will work better but the old style bracket may not. You may find it "pops out/up" more often when under sail. The original bracket has problems with
the faster speed of racing sail/dagger-board/rudder.
I don't know much about much, but I have never have heard that the manufacturer ever produced the new rudder/old bracket combination. Am I mistaken?
I always give mine a airfoil shape just because. If you want to go all the way, leave the
trailing edge squared-off. With a rounded trailing edge there is flow separation about
two-thirds of the way towards the rear of the rudder on each side. With a square trailing
edge you get a vortex bubble that delays the separation. Hopefully, you will not get vibration.
There is one of those old bronze brackets on Ebay. Personally I'd put the money towards a new style bracket.
If you had started with a larger blank, wouldn't a "pie cut" solve that problem?One challenge with the sunfish rudder is that the chord length varies.
If you had started with a larger blank, wouldn't a "pie cut" solve that problem?
View attachment 22035
Would two passes by a stationary router make the leading edge you want?
Did you try talking to John at J.O. Woodworks? I think he randomly posts on this forum...
He has been making wooden Sunfish parts for years - might be able to give you some tips and tricks.
J.O. Woodworks
(Might be too late at this point...)
Oh, and I'm jealous of some of your woodworking hand tools!