Question Mainsheet length and diameter for 2:1 …

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Cascadian505

Active Member
I think Lee Montes says 42’. Is that working for people? What diameter are people going with? 5mm? I don’t sail in over 20 because I have an old boat and don’t want to break the mast step.

Thanks!!
 
Charles Howard said:
The 2 to 1 is not changing the load on the mast step
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What I’m saying is I don’t sail the boat in anything over 20 because it’s an old boat.

That being said I can use a smaller diameter mainsheet. And the 2:1reduces the load on the mainsheet. So I might go with a skinny mainsheet. Is 6 or 7 mm reasonable or too skinny?
 
6mm is really skinny. I sailed with that for a while and it was tough on my fingers. I would go with 7mm or 8mm, especially if you're not racing
 
Cascadian505 said:
That being said I can use a smaller diameter mainsheet. And the 2:1reduces the load on the mainsheet. So I might go with a skinny mainsheet. Is 6 or 7 mm reasonable or too skinny?
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Last summer I installed 2 to 1 on my mainsheet. I was quite surprised just how much easier it was to sheet in. Like a toy. I usually sail with a nice, comfy 8 mm New England Ropes mainsheet. But with sheeting being so easy I ordered a 6 mm higher quality mainsheet.

The 6 mm was tiny but was still very easy on my hands due to the 2 to 1 and the lower friction around the blocks. I then ordered the same higher quality main sheet in 7 mm and decided that this was the best.

Another thing that helped with the 6 mm was the fact that I always wear Ronstan gloves with no finger tips in order to shield the top of my hands from the sun. They also increase my grip on the mainsheet.

I now sail exclusively with the 7 mm. In all conditions. Here are some photos of my 2:1 mainsheet conversion and also the three sizes of mainsheet that I've used. From top to bottom the main sheets are 8 mm, 7 mm and 6 mm.

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Cheers,

- Andy
 
Thanks all. I think I’ll go with 7mm. I’m going to do a tapered mainsheet so I need to find the kind I can cut the sheath off of for the portion not being handled.
 
Well... tapered lines aren’t allowed on the Sunfish. And neither are Harken or Allen blocks at those points (22 mm Racelite and 28 mm Nautos are the only ones), and the end of the sheet has to be tied to the eyestrap :rolleyes:

Maybe this is not relevant to you guys, but just for general information...

_
 
LaLi said:
Well... tapered lines aren’t allowed on the Sunfish. And neither are Harken or Allen blocks at those points (22 mm Racelite and 28 mm Nautos are the only ones), and the end of the sheet has to be tied to the eyestrap :rolleyes:

Maybe this is not relevant to you guys, but just for general information...

_
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I’m not sailing it in class regattas. Just for cruising around and camping adventures.
 
Cascadian505 said:
I think Lee Montes says 42’. Is that working for people? What diameter are people going with? 5mm? I don’t sail in over 20 because I have an old boat and don’t want to break the mast step.

Thanks!!
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42' seems to be a popular choice. Many sailors opt for 5mm diameter, which provides a good balance of strength and flexibility. Avoiding over 20 knots to protect your mast step is a smart move. Have you considered any specific brands or materials for the rigging?
 
How common is it that the mast step breaks? My fish are 55 and 32 years old and I sail them in everything. I've never worried about that...my concern is usually tearing the sail.
 
Oldfish newfish said:
How common is it that the mast step breaks? My fish are 55 and 32 years old and I sail them in everything. I've never worried about that...my concern is usually tearing the sail.
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I’m not sure. I have broken a Laser mast step before.

I’d love to know that it doesn’t happen.
 
Genas said:
42' seems to be a popular choice. Many sailors opt for 5mm diameter, which provides a good balance of strength and flexibility. Avoiding over 20 knots to protect your mast step is a smart move. Have you considered any specific brands or materials for the rigging?
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I am going to swing by West Coast Sailing and see what they have. I happen to be in Hood River, OR this weekend and will be driving through Portland on my way home.

I am open to suggestions. I don’t want to spend a ton of money.
 
If you’re going to taper a line, you need it to have a Dyneema core, which makes it many times more expensive! Go for a cheaper, non-taperable polyester rope with a load-bearing cover instead.

From West Coast’s selection of line, the Robline Dinghy Sheet is the best value. The classic Rooster Polilite isn’t bad, either. Both come in 6 and 7 mm.

6mm Robline Dinghy Sheet XL Line

6mm Rooster Polilite Line

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Only for those who want to race in more formal Sunfish events, Andy's set up is nice but not 'legal'.
With respect to sheets, my Rooster Polilite one seems to last and last...
 
Cascadian505 said:
What I’m saying is I don’t sail the boat in anything over 20 because it’s an old boat.

That being said I can use a smaller diameter mainsheet. And the 2:1reduces the load on the mainsheet. So I might go with a skinny mainsheet. Is 6 or 7 mm reasonable or too skinny?
Click to expand...
I've sailed with a 7mm Rooster mainsheet in a Laser for years. Lasers are 2:1 on the main. If you use gloves, 7mm is fine. If you don't use gloves, I'd go larger diameter. I've tried many mainsheets, the Rooster works best to run freely when rounding the weather mark. I've just purchased a Sunfish and plan to rig it 2:1. I use a ratchet block and no cleats.

Also used a Rooster mainsheet and pole launcher line in my Snipe
 
I use 7mm line. Also, I tie the end in a clove hitch around the boom behind the block. Helps the line run more freely, I think.
 
I ordered 7mm Rooster Polilite from West Coast Sailing. It is not taperable, but as someone mentioned those lines are twice the price so I scrapped that idea. I ordered 43’ of 7mm, and the 22mm Harken traveler block (two blocks at right angle to each other). I will attach the dead end to the boom with a bowline tied to a stainless ring lashed onto the boom.

I also bought a ratchet block from Intensity. It’s a Nautos. I tried going without a ratchet block but feel it’s needed. Maybe less so with the 2:1. But I’m still happy to have it. I’m going to move the fwd mainsheet block on the boom fwd more. I have my rig set up for racing and it’s in the wrong spot. I’ll lash that block too rather than drill new holes.
 
If I read the class rules right, you can't taper any of the lines. A ratchet block is really important to play the main properly, yes, you need to ease the sheet before the puff hits, and dump it when necessary to keep the boat flat, but when the wind hits, if you are flat and hiked hard, the energy should go into the boat. It's almost impossible to resist the pull of a puff hard enough without a ratchet block.
 
macjacob said:
If I read the class rules right, you can't taper any of the lines. A ratchet block is really important to play the main properly, yes, you need to ease the sheet before the puff hits, and dump it when necessary to keep the boat flat, but when the wind hits, if you are flat and hiked hard, the energy should go into the boat. It's almost impossible to resist the pull of a puff hard enough without a ratchet block.
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I’m not racing the boat. I wound up not doing the tapered mainsheet due to costs. I’m just sailing it for fun!
 
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