Laser 2 Boom Vang Needed

[Prestonharris97]

Hey all, finally got my hands on a great laser 2 here in the US. Unfortunately I am missing the boom vang blocks. All the posts ive hunted down the links are either broken or it seems the sellers only deal to business and not personal buyers.

Any help would be appreciated! A close to original replacement is good but I'm fine with getting anything that will work as needed.

 

[LaLi]

Have you tried Fogh Marine in Toronto? Looks to me that they have both blocks, the RWO R4970 cleat block and the R1080 boom block:
https://shop.foghmarine.com/double-block-with-jam-and-becket-25mm.html

RWO Laser 2 Vang Double Block (Needs R4890 Key)

You’re probably missing the R4890 vang key as well: Vang Key Angled Take-Off
It replaces the shackle on the R1080.

(These fittings aren’t just ”close” to the originals - they are the only of their kind to be used on Laser 2s, ever )

You need an additional small-ish standard shackle to attach the cleat block to the mast; you can use a swivel here, too, but it’s not absolutely necessary.

How old is your boat, what sail number? As always, it would be nice to see some pictures

_

 

[Prestonharris97]

Awesome I just emailed them!

I know it's from 1987.
Sail number in HIN is 06788

hull and deck are extremely solid. Barely a scratch on it. Needs a cleaning. Got new lines on the way.

The mast step is off center. It's two pieces of wood sandwiching a fiberglass core (or maybe that middle piece is wood now that I look at the picture close). Right piece of wood is good. Left needs replacing. Should be something I can mend through the access ports! Any tips or tricks let me know!

 

[LaLi]

Any tips or tricks let me know!

Here are a few

First, a couple of rules of thumb: 1) Never assume that anything applicable to the Laser (ILCA) is applicaple to the Laser 2, and 2) Never assume that your boat’s previous owner had any clue how to rig, tune or sail it...

And now for some specifics that I noticed in the pictures:

• You probably already know this, but the fairleads on the gunwales and the cleats next to them are for the spinnaker sheet, not the jibsheets The latter go only through the fairleads on the tracks on the foredeck. (And those fairlead cars are kept practically all the time in their innermost position.)
• The traveller block isn’t actually supposed to ”travel” off the centreline. Rig the traveller like this:
  (There are quite a few more helpful L2 videos on that channel, check them out.)
• Rig a clew tie-down line. Take some 60 cm of 4 mm pre-stretched (or similarly high quality polyester) line, thread it through the outhaul eye and around the boom (but inside the outhaul line) twice, and tighten with a square knot. The sail should almost touch the boom when it’s rigged right.
• The trapeze elastic should be tied to the blocks at the top of the trapeze rings, not to the rings themselves. Also, it’s intended to pass through the fairlead on the foredeck in front of the mast, and I believe there’s a cheek block there, too, in front of that. The more stretching length the better.
• The trapeze wires look a bit long (that is, the handles are probably too low), but that’s something you’ll really find out only during a test sail.

Does the boat have a spinnaker and equipment (pole, bag?)

(Sorry I can’t really say anything about the picture from the inside of the boat. I’m not even sure what it shows )

_

 

[Prestonharris97]

Here are a few

First, a couple of rules of thumb: 1) Never assume that anything applicable to the Laser (ILCA) is applicaple to the Laser 2, and 2) Never assume that your boat’s previous owner had any clue how to rig, tune or sail it...

And now for some specifics that I noticed in the pictures:

• You probably already know this, but the fairleads on the gunwales and the cleats next to them are for the spinnaker sheet, not the jibsheets The latter go only through the fairleads on the tracks on the foredeck. (And those fairlead cars are kept practically all the time in their innermost position.)
• The traveller block isn’t actually supposed to ”travel” off the centreline. Rig the traveller like this:
  (There are quite a few more helpful L2 videos on that channel, check them out.)
• Rig a clew tie-down line. Take some 60 cm of 4 mm pre-stretched (or similarly high quality polyester) line, thread it through the outhaul eye and around the boom (but inside the outhaul line) twice, and tighten with a square knot. The sail should almost touch the boom when it’s rigged right.
• The trapeze elastic should be tied to the blocks at the top of the trapeze rings, not to the rings themselves. Also, it’s intended to pass through the fairlead on the foredeck in front of the mast, and I believe there’s a cheek block there, too, in front of that. The more stretching length the better.
• The trapeze wires look a bit long (that is, the handles are probably too low), but that’s something you’ll really find out only during a test sail.

Does the boat have a spinnaker and equipment (pole, bag?)

(Sorry I can’t really say anything about the picture from the inside of the boat. I’m not even sure what it shows )

_

I've got several cold months to get the rigging right so this is great! All the shock cord for the trapeze was an absolute mess haha I've got new lines for everything on the way. We are missing rope for clew tie. Awesome video I will check them out!

Any help is appreciated! I can't wait for warmer weather. The lake we sail at has mountains all around so we get some beautiful downlope winds in the evenings.

 

[Prestonharris97]

Just for anyone digging through these threads. I was able to contact Foghmarine and order all of the parts above to be shipped to the US. $30 shipping.

 

[joe c]

fogh kicks ass for l2parts! if you don't have a spin, (looks like the halyard is there?) don't bother asking them if you need one! I got the last laser performance Olympic spin they had in north America. I don't see track rigging or the tell tale hoops on the boom either. but they are super fun boats. I get mine on plane every chance we have and have also had it pretty much completely submerged going down the shaft with it. I don't get crew who can get on the wire too often but it is a blast with a good crew who doesnt mind climbing. I'm still terrible at single handing it in any half decent wind. and I need someone who can skipper so I can get on the wire for a change. my usual crew is easy 230, and he's 6'2. I don't recommend that. lol. 5'4" and 120 is perfect.

I pulled out my mast step. the plate the mast goes into was loose when I got mine and one screw was completely mis aligned and barely getting into the step. I was able to get a new white oak one in though the inspection port in the forward bulkhead and was able to epoxy it in. it looks like yours suffers the same misalignment crooked issue. the interior bulkheads were 3/8 ply from what I remember. garbage. my cockpit floor is a bit soft. had plans to cut it out this winter and put in new stringers, but sidecar needed work, the triumph got a stupid flat tire, and my garage space ended up having some dude living in it most of the winter. ugh.

also, check for flotation. my bags mostly all degraded and had holes in them. there should be 2 in the rear transom. and 2 in the bow. basically milk jugs. I bought 2 more l2s last year for parts rigging etc. I scavenged the flotation from them for mine. its probably less sinkable than my sunfish now.

I've finally gotten the blades 3d scanned to make the tooling for new cf blades. thats been a long process. I'm not super savvy but drop me a note if you're looking for little pieces. and be really really careful with that bailer. they are nla and a real pain in the ass to replace with something. but someone here has been 3d printing parts for it.

oh, and mine turtles instantly. the mast is 19ft. just fyi. they do right pretty easily if the mast isn't in the mud. but ive had mine stuck in the mud a few times and its not fun. I've found shimmying it back and forth with the dagger usually frees it. and then of course you'll have mud falling on you until it dries. or send your crew around to clean it off before righting.

and drop me a note when you have a chance to measure your rig. im still chasing numbers on mine. I cant seem to get the measurements I'm "supposed" to have. you'll need one of those super long nylon tape measures. funny, I bought mine 3 years ago this month. search my posts. I have some pics up, mine wasn't as nice as yours. the orange ones are cool. I have a set of white sails and a set of the blue.

my boats number 581 from what I remember.

 

[joe c]

oh, and get some grip tape on the rail. being on the wire sucks without tape. 3m makes stuff I found at home Depot or Lowe's. works great. and you can fit bottleports in the gunwhales.

 

[joe c]

Have you tried Fogh Marine in Toronto? Looks to me that they have both blocks, the RWO R4970 cleat block and the R1080 boom block:
https://shop.foghmarine.com/double-block-with-jam-and-becket-25mm.html

RWO Laser 2 Vang Double Block (Needs R4890 Key)

You’re probably missing the R4890 vang key as well: Vang Key Angled Take-Off
It replaces the shackle on the R1080.

(These fittings aren’t just ”close” to the originals - they are the only of their kind to be used on Laser 2s, ever )

You need an additional small-ish standard shackle to attach the cleat block to the mast; you can use a swivel here, too, but it’s not absolutely necessary.

How old is your boat, what sail number? As always, it would be nice to see some pictures

_

I'll have to dig out the one I got eith my boat. its not that one. I have one of those and I like it better. its got another

Have you tried Fogh Marine in Toronto? Looks to me that they have both blocks, the RWO R4970 cleat block and the R1080 boom block:
https://shop.foghmarine.com/double-block-with-jam-and-becket-25mm.html

RWO Laser 2 Vang Double Block (Needs R4890 Key)

You’re probably missing the R4890 vang key as well: Vang Key Angled Take-Off
It replaces the shackle on the R1080.

(These fittings aren’t just ”close” to the originals - they are the only of their kind to be used on Laser 2s, ever )

You need an additional small-ish standard shackle to attach the cleat block to the mast; you can use a swivel here, too, but it’s not absolutely necessary.

How old is your boat, what sail number? As always, it would be nice to see some pictures

_

I should find a pic of the one that came with my boat. its a single block. I have the double one that I assumed was a later fitment too which I like better. you just know the one. hmm...

 

[joe c]

the one on the left came with my first boat. and I think that's the one pictured in the parts lists or manual etc and is original to the boat (?) Lali? the one on he right came with one of the other boats I picked up. big difference in gear. also, in my experimentation with with vangs, I did try the standard laser vang. I messed around with the standard laser vang to see if the harken would fit and while it will fit with a little work, the problem with it is the standard mast is designed to spin. the laser 2 mast does not. so the vang for the standard isn't designed to hinge as it were, on the mast. its supposed to be stationary to work. so the twisting action of the boom on the gooseneck fouls it. you will read that "it wont work" but that's why. you could potentially make one work with some work, but the one with the extra purchase is more than adequate.

 

[LaLi]

the one on the left came with my first boat. and I think that's the one pictured in the parts lists or manual etc and is original to the boat (?) Lali?

The one with the white line is the one and only Laser 2 vang!
(By the way, that line is threaded incorrectly at the cleat block - it should come out on the opposite side of the sheave. It’s looks very short, too, as it should be reachable from the helm, and have a good sized loop at the end.
Also... the blocks should be oriented with one another so that the line comes out of the cleat pointing aft, not up. And a twisted shackle orients the cleat horizontally wrong. A swivel would be best there.)

The one with the purple line is the original Laser (ILCA) vang, and it fundamentally has nothing to do with the L2.
(The line itself would be a better fit for an L2 vang than the white one, though.)

_

 

[joe c]

I learned something! and my crew on the l2 runs the vang. I steer and mainsheet. and pick up floating crew sometimes. the standard laser vang actually works fine. takes a little more muscle but never had a problem with it. we don't do too much vang adjustment generally.

I've had the one with the white line mocked up and tested it but yeah I don't have the swivel so we usually default to the other. I think that was the old bridle actually. and you cant see the knot in the end of it for grabbing it. but its there.

and you the correct one is all threaded wrong. I don't know why. Who knows.

 

[Zhankz]

oh, and get some grip tape on the rail. being on the wire sucks without tape. 3m makes stuff I found at home Depot or Lowe's. works great. and you can fit bottleports in the gunwhales.

I've been looking for grip tape for my rails, do you know specifically what you bought?
I would also like to get a wide grip or at least a lot of it for my cockpit and side decks because the previous owner who had the boat re-coated didn't re-imprint the non-skid
So the more the merrier!
(Please don't be too rough! I like my knees and drysuit. But beggars can't be choosers.)

 

[joe c]

I've been looking for grip tape for my rails, do you know specifically what you bought?
I would also like to get a wide grip or at least a lot of it for my cockpit and side decks because the previous owner who had the boat re-coated didn't re-imprint the non-skid
So the more the merrier!
(Please don't be too rough! I like my knees and drysuit. But beggars can't be choosers.)

I found stuff called 3m safety walk. I think at home Depot. its a greyish rubber sorta grip rape.

 

[Prestonharris97]

fogh kicks ass for l2parts! if you don't have a spin, (looks like the halyard is there?) don't bother asking them if you need one! I got the last laser performance Olympic spin they had in north America. I don't see track rigging or the tell tale hoops on the boom either. but they are super fun boats. I get mine on plane every chance we have and have also had it pretty much completely submerged going down the shaft with it. I don't get crew who can get on the wire too often but it is a blast with a good crew who doesnt mind climbing. I'm still terrible at single handing it in any half decent wind. and I need someone who can skipper so I can get on the wire for a change. my usual crew is easy 230, and he's 6'2. I don't recommend that. lol. 5'4" and 120 is perfect.

I pulled out my mast step. the plate the mast goes into was loose when I got mine and one screw was completely mis aligned and barely getting into the step. I was able to get a new white oak one in though the inspection port in the forward bulkhead and was able to epoxy it in. it looks like yours suffers the same misalignment crooked issue. the interior bulkheads were 3/8 ply from what I remember. garbage. my cockpit floor is a bit soft. had plans to cut it out this winter and put in new stringers, but sidecar needed work, the triumph got a stupid flat tire, and my garage space ended up having some dude living in it most of the winter. ugh.

also, check for flotation. my bags mostly all degraded and had holes in them. there should be 2 in the rear transom. and 2 in the bow. basically milk jugs. I bought 2 more l2s last year for parts rigging etc. I scavenged the flotation from them for mine. its probably less sinkable than my sunfish now.

I've finally gotten the blades 3d scanned to make the tooling for new cf blades. thats been a long process. I'm not super savvy but drop me a note if you're looking for little pieces. and be really really careful with that bailer. they are nla and a real pain in the ass to replace with something. but someone here has been 3d printing parts for it.

oh, and mine turtles instantly. the mast is 19ft. just fyi. they do right pretty easily if the mast isn't in the mud. but ive had mine stuck in the mud a few times and its not fun. I've found shimmying it back and forth with the dagger usually frees it. and then of course you'll have mud falling on you until it dries. or send your crew around to clean it off before righting.

and drop me a note when you have a chance to measure your rig. im still chasing numbers on mine. I cant seem to get the measurements I'm "supposed" to have. you'll need one of those super long nylon tape measures. funny, I bought mine 3 years ago this month. search my posts. I have some pics up, mine wasn't as nice as yours. the orange ones are cool. I have a set of white sails and a set of the blue.

my boats number 581 from what I remember.

I'll definitely have to fix the mast step but it is a very solid boat all around. No soft spots at all. I've been tinkering on it here and there anD have it nearly water ready.

It does have a spinnaker and spinnaker pole. I have no clue how the previous owner rigged the spinnaker. It looks like they used - a Trolley setup because they had the shock cord for it but there was not an eye strap on the boom for it. I have added that and plan to try the trolley setup. I also bought a mesh bag off Amazon and tied it up to the front of the cockpit as a makeshift spin bag. We will see how it works. I may need a larger one. It was smaller than I expected. My spinnaker has laser2 branding and is yellow with a white middle stripe. It didn't have anything to connect the retrieval too though.

I'll get some measurements sent your way! My boat cleaned up beautifully.

The vang situation I believe I have ironed out but that picture you sent and @LaLi correction will help me with the exact way it's supposed to be ran. I'll post more pics on my next test setup!

 

[LaLi]

I also bought a mesh bag off Amazon and tied it up to the front of the cockpit as a makeshift spin bag. We will see how it works. I may need a larger one. It was smaller than I expected.

This is from another L2 thread a couple of years back, hope it helps:

If your boat doesn't have a spinnaker bag (they have a strange tendency to vanish), here's the measurements of what I believe is an original one:

View attachment 54853

View attachment 54854

I'd add an extra flap or some other mechanism that prevents the sail falling out of the bag in case of a capsize.

Thanks to forum member Nicolas Canovas for the pictures

My spinnaker has laser2 branding and is yellow with a white middle stripe. It didn't have anything to connect the retrieval to though.

A spinnaker that’s intended to be bagged isn’t supposed to have a retrieval line.

_

 

[Prestonharris97]

This is from another L2 thread a couple of years back, hope it helps:

If your boat doesn't have a spinnaker bag (they have a strange tendency to vanish), here's the measurements of what I believe is an original one:

View attachment 54853

View attachment 54854

I'd add an extra flap or some other mechanism that prevents the sail falling out of the bag in case of a capsize.

Thanks to forum member Nicolas Canovas for the pictures



A spinnaker that’s intended to be bagged isn’t supposed to have a retrieval line.

_

That makes sense. I guess there really is no point to retrieval lines.

I should be able to get out and rig everything for a complete test this coming week so I'll probably find something else to ask about. Seems like one answered question just leads to 2 more lol.

 

[joe c]

I found a guy on Etsy who makes bags and got one. the spin is big. I haven't figured out how to get mine rigged into the cockpit. it takes up a bit of space. I didn't have the laser out much last year. so I didn't do much to it. I should single hand it some this year. I've lost inspiration to work on it and mod it. that tape works pretty well though. my boat didn't come with a spin, so I had to set it up. it doesn't look like you have any of the spots or faileads for the for the halyard on the cockpit sole. I've rigged mine in the parking lot but that's it. sad face. your boat looks nice. I'm jealous. lol.

 

[Zhankz]

It does have a spinnaker and spinnaker pole. I have no clue how the previous owner rigged the spinnaker. It looks like they used - a Trolley setup because they had the shock cord for it but there was not an eye strap on the boom for it. I have added that and plan to try the trolley setup.

What might this trolley setup you talk of look like?
I know about the eye strap on the boom with the shock cord, but I can't find that part and don't know how to fancy one myself so any alternative system would be delightful

 

[Prestonharris97]

What might this trolley setup you talk of look like?
I know about the eye strap on the boom with the shock cord, but I can't find that part and don't know how to fancy one myself so any alternative system would be delightful

I quickly rigged it one evening as the sun was setting. It seemed to work but may be alittle bit of a pain To get perfect.

The rear part is suspended by the trolley and the front is held by the topping lift but also a small piece of shock cord with a ball on the end to help secure it to the boom.

 

[Zhankz]

I quickly rigged it one evening as the sun was setting. It seemed to work but may be alittle bit of a pain To get perfect.

The rear part is suspended by the trolley and the front is held by the topping lift but also a small piece of shock cord with a ball on the end to help secure it to the boom.

I see! Thank you so much!
Which of the many manuals was this one from? I don't recognize it.