You have a challenge ahead of you
- I believe it's a 67 model.
- I plan to repaint it and for now, So where do you guys reccommend I buy the paint? I don't have a lot of money right now . . .
- When I picked up the boat, the gelcoat rubs off on my hands like chalk.
- The sails are in decent shape, but one needs patched, so I may pick up some sail patching tape for now.
- I only bought it all for $150, so right now I don't want to invest a lot of money into it, I just want to use it as a recreational hobby.
- I also need to find a bailer plug, as it's is missing the plug and the previous owner just filled the bailer with silicone.
- I am open to suggestions, but like I said, I'm broke and would like to do it right, but as inexpensive as possible.
- I also have to remount the plastic piece in front of the cockpit.
Depending on the cost, I planned on installing an inspection port.
I will have to price the paints, I know one marine store I went to was expensive, the cheapest paint was $40 a pint.
Thanks for your help wayne. I will look around here more for local paint. I don't like buying things over the internet if I don't have to.
Here's a thought, by any chance do you have a boat repair shop nearby?I don't want expensive, I just want quality that will last a couple years and looks good and will look good if taken care of. I really want to paint it back to the stock colors, but I'd need red and blue.
Dual racing stripes began in 1973, so this is at least a 1973 or later boat.
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Agree about the bridle. Rope (aka line) is a cheap substitute for the wire one, and works fine - just get some sturdy, thin line that won't stretch like crazy or wear thru. Line is not legal for racing, but for cruising it is fine and inexpensive.
Regarding the stripes, they were painted on, as the boat is certainly a 1970 or older. It does not have the storage cubby that they added in 1971.
BB
Given the condition of the boat, the bridle's probably going to snap off at the first hard wind as well. Bridle's run about $30, and are very easy to install. As this is a budget job, you may want to keep a spare twin pack of bungee cords in the well compartment as an alternative option...
Dual racing stripes began in 1973, so this is at least a 1973 or later boat.
By the way, anyone know a ballpark on putting a thin layer of gelcoat on the bottom, as opposed to paint? $90-130?
Dual racing stripes began in 1973, so this is at least a 1973 or later boat.
QUOTE]
Agree about the bridle. Rope (aka line) is a cheap substitute for the wire one, and works fine - just get some sturdy, thin line that won't stretch like crazy or wear thru. Line is not legal for racing, but for cruising it is fine and inexpensive.
Regarding the stripes, they were painted on, as the boat is certainly a 1970 or older. It does not have the storage cubby that they added in 1971.
BB
I will use rope/line since this is only recreational, I don't have to follow the standards or rules. I didn't realize the stripes were painted on after the fact, well, if possible, I wouldn't mind repainting them when I get the money since I like the stripes.
Correct - didn't catch that, there's no well compartment here.
This is the first time I've seen someone go out and paint a matching line, which certainly explains why it smeared off like it did.
When you get around to finally sailing, gently, gently undo the gooseneck beforehand, and if there is any corrosion, you may want to wrap it up with electrician's tape, and then gently slide the gooseneck back over the electrician's tape. This too will buy you some time as, given the condition of the boat, the boom will probably snap in two right at the gooseneck area the very first time that you tip over. After all this prep work, it's a real bummer when this happens (and it usually always seems to happen within the first 10 minutes of sailing...)
I think new booms are about $130 these days, and gafs about $180.
Additionally, Annapolis Performance Sailing (APS) also sells some sort of aftermarket pully that looks like it can be installed on the boom in a situation where the pulley has pulled out/rotted out of the boom, and the ensuing pulley hole/slot in now too big to accept a normal replacement part. That aftermarket part is only about $5-6 bucks as well. So keep that in mind as well, as you go about the task of getting the craft seaworthy....
Link: http://www.apsltd.com/c-2385-SunfishThroughBoltKitforBoomEyestrapsBlocks.aspx
Ya never know, there might have been an outlet right in your town. But, I agree, avoid additional shipping charges when possible. I'm sure in a town Houston's size there's got to be a boat supply house or two.
Here's a thought, by any chance do you have a boat repair shop nearby?
Talk with their paint person and explain you only need what would essentially amount to the bottom of the can from a big job to do the stripes with. Just maybe you'll get a heads-up when they shoot that color and can get the left-overs.
Is there a chance the deck could be buffed out instead of painted, aside from the stripes, that is? I realize, the bottom will still need paint, but that could save you some.
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Hard to tell from the photos, has the deck been painted? You mentioned chalky oxidation so I was thinking is was still the original gelcoat.I might first try to buff the paint
Well it appears that the gelcoat is still there, and that the top may have been painted on. But most of it looks to be gone now. Also, where the rudder attatches, I got the numbers off of the plate there. But I don't think they are for my boat. Here's what the serial plate said: SNAJ78177302.
EDIT: I believe that is the serial off of the Snark Mach II that the rudder was taken from.
I believe you are right...
SNAJ78177302
SNA ... Mfg ID ( SNARK BOATS - Parent Company: MEYERS BOAT CO INC )
J7817 .... Internal production coding number
73 ... Boat Model Year
02 ... Month Built
... the model year and build month sequence appear to have been erroneously swapped from the legal format, based on, you couldn’t have a month 73. But, that was the first year a USCG Hull ID was required so they may have been confused by the gummit instructions.
I've also seen other brand boats at the beginning of Hull Id's with the number stamped in the upper left of the transom.
So, that confirms the rudder's origin.
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For your generation Sunfish, it was on a metal tag fastened to the deck about here . . .I was wondering, where would the serial for my boat be at? Was it located in the same area, meaning it is no longer there?
Here’s what Interlux says for their Brightsides paint (one frequently chosen for painting Sunfish). . .do they make marine paints that can be sprayed with the gun?
Application Details [partial] – Brightside [one part] Polyurethane
Method of application: Airless Spray / Brush / Conventional Spray / Roller (Roll & Tip)
Number of Coats:
2 minimum
Coverage:
(Theoretical) - 550 (ft²/Gal) by brush, 440 (ft²/Gal) by spray
Preparation
BARE FIBERGLASS: [clean, paint free, crack free gelcoat is "bare fiberglass"]
In Good Condition
Begin by scrubbing well using soap and water and a stiff brush. Rinse with fresh water and allow to dry. Wipe a small area with a clean rag that has been wetted with Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202. While the surface is still wet, wipe with a clean, dry rag. Continue this process until the entire surface has been cleaned. Sand with 220-320 grade (grit) paper. Remove sanding residue.
In Poor Condition
Clean as above. Sand with 80 grade (grit) paper. Apply Brightside Primer.
Application
Ventilation and Humidity Control
It is best to paint on warm, dry mornings. Cold weather retards the drying and humidity can spoil the gloss.
Spray
Airless Spray
Pressure: 170 bar/2500 psi. Tip Size: 0.33-0.41 mm/13-16 thou.
Conventional Spray
Pressure Pot: Pressure: 3.44-4.47 bar/50-65 psi (gun pressure); 8-10 psi (pot pressure). Tip Size: 0.89-1.4 mm/35-50 thou. Siphon Cup: Pressure: 3.44-4.47 bar/50-65 psi - gun pressure. Tip Size: 1.5-1.8 mm/60-70 thou.
Other
Spray pressures listed are recommendations only. The applicator may use any settings which yield the best results for the individual spraying technique and current weather conditions. Brightside is best applied in thin coats. [dry coat thickness, 1.2 mils or 0.0012"]
Important Points
Do not apply heavy coats as this will affect dry through. Failure to follow proper dry times carefully will cause improper drying, wrinkling and loss of adhesion. Avoid painting in direct sunlight. Product temperature should be minimum 10°C/50°F and maximum 29°C/85°F. Ambient temperature should be minimum 10°C/50°F and maximum 35°C/95°F. Substrate temperature should be minimum 10°C/50°F and maximum 29°C/85°F.
Full text …
https://secure.international-coatings.com/pds/yacht/GB_ISO_I_5000165.htm
Just painting on a coat of resin is not recommended. Without reinforcement and only an adhesive bond to the underlying ... what, gelcoat, bare structural fiberglass ... it will crack away in a short time.I'll be okay with putting a thin layer of resin on the bottom, the complete thing? I want to give the hull a little extra protection, which is why I ask. Thanks.