Jib halyard help - please

Kamper

New Member
Just got a mod 1 and bought new halyards from CD. Downloaded manual, threaded jib lines according to pic (thru cleat, becket, and jam cleat) - but - big but - when halyard is completely released the jib shackle only comes down to spreader height. What’s going on? Anyone have a couple pics with the right routing for the 2 lines? want to go sailing! Thanks
Dan
 
Just got a mod 1 and bought new halyards from CD. Downloaded manual, threaded jib lines according to pic (thru cleat, becket, and jam cleat) - but - big but - when halyard is completely released the jib shackle only comes down to spreader height. What’s going on? Anyone have a couple pics with the right routing for the 2 lines? want to go sailing! Thanks
Dan

so to answer my own question- and hopefully to help others with same issue-
Called CD tech support and his answer to douse the jib is to release lines completely from jamb cleat, mast cleat and becket sheeve / essentially you have one long spliced jib halyard now.

To hoist - gotta put lines back through the cleats and becket. Odd set up but that’s the solution to get the jib shackle back to the deck. Cheers
 
Makes me appreciate a Mod 3 with roller furled jib, no halyard. Guessing that the original design incorporated the block and becket to make it easier to tension the forestay and vary that tension based on conditions; sort of like the adjustable back stay which I had on larger boats, with roller furling and reefing. Since I don't race the Mod 3 I don't feel the need to adjust forestay tension other than the tension applied by the main and/or the vang.
I would consider not passing the halyard through the open base of the cleat, pass it under the lower horn, secure lightly with a small bungee. Then, when releasing the halyard maybe just pop off the bungee and let the line run. Be interesting to see how other Mod 1 sailors are dealing with it. Just a thought.
 
We just got this boat ( and just joined the forum group) We wanted furled jib but pickens are slim here in San Diego (not to mention high prices) so went without. Got a good deal on boat with beautiful hull, replaced all rigging, jib is nice and crispy but some day when it’s replaced I’ll buy the roller.
I guess the one good thing about the becket is that if you have to douse the jib in a hurry the tails bitter end won’t ride up the mast and through the top halyard block - ha
 
Last thought. I am guessing that if you leave a stopper knot at the tail of the halyard and if the jamb cleat has a retainer on it, that when you slip the halyard off of the cleat horn you will be able to let the becket run up the mast about ten feet, lowering the jib shackle ten feet, while retaining control of the halyard bitter end. With a little luck you will never have to worry about the becket ride up to the top halyard block. The halyard should be about fifteen feet long and you will be releasing about two thirds of it according to the rigging diagrams.
 
I bought the jib haulyard lines from Catalina Direct. It turned out to be kind of funky. I don’t like it. When I got the boat it just had one long line, which may have been better.
I keep the one end stuck in the jam cleat. I pull that line down until I can reach the other end that’s stuck at the becket then wrap the other end around the horn cleat.
 

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