Initial Rigging Check

[Sonex]

Hello!

I just bought a 1980 Laser this week and could use some help checking how I've got it rigged. I've sailed a Force 5 for maybe 10 hours, a Nacra 450 for 50 hours, 95% solo. Never had any hands on sailing lessons, just reading about it, then trial and error. Never sailed a Laser.

I plan to buy new rigging lines, all fancy colors.

pic 1

Cunningham

The gooseneck has a hole drilled through it below where the boom connects. The Cunningham was already tied off through this, so I pulled the loop up and fitted the boom on. Up through the tack, down to the deck through a fairlead and finishes through a cleat. For sailing I would prolly put a stopper knot at the end.

Vang

Standard 1980 vang?

pic 2

Outhaul

Stopper knot at outhaul fairlead, up through clew snap hook (cheesy aluminum from my keychain will be replaced before sailing), down through fairlead and forward along boom finishing through a cleat. I plan to put in a clew strap also.

Traveler

The main and traveler blocks can be disconnected since the links have a small open area that allows them to slip through. Is this a Brommel hook?

pic 3

The main goes from the boom end block becket, through the traveler block, boom end block, a metal eye (just before and below the outhaul cleat), forward boom block, main block, cam block and cockpit.

On a Laser diagram, that metal eye is in the same place as something labeled as 'deck strap'. Is that it?

Any suggestions about rigging would be helpful. I ordered a Harbor Freight boat trailer, which should arrive Monday. I plan on sailing Lake Whatcom for a few times to relearn things, then prolly Samish Bay. Haven't been out in a couple years and that was on the cat. Can't wait to sail a boat I can tack with!

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Danno

 

[LaserBill]

One quick comment: You will need a clew strap or other clew tie down to keep your clew tight to the boom. In the photo you have attached the outhaul to the sail without anything holding the sail to the boom, a necessary part of the rigging.

 

[Murphs]

I plan to put in a clew strap also.

I almost missed it too..

 

[Sonex]

Rudder, Daggerboard and Cockpit Rigging

Thanks, guys

I tipped the boat on its side this morning and fitted the rudder. The only thing preventing the tiller retaining pin from coming out is friction and gravity.

Also, I've heard of a pintle retaining pin that could secure the pintle to the gudgeon through a hole in the end of the pintle. But my pintles don't extend past the bottom of the gudgeon, so the only thing keeping the rudder on the boat is the rudder stop.

Are there some ways to securely fasten these things? The rudder downhaul is also wrapped on a cleat near the end of the tiller, but there's not much extra for it. If I make it a little longer, I could make sure the tiller would stay connected to the rudder.

I took out my daggerboard and found a few small parts with them. One looks like a rudder stop or something, another is a heavy gauge wire bent in a particular fashion. Then there is a foot long cord with a hook on each end. Not sure where these will go. I know the daggerboard is somehow connected to the boat, but the double hooked cord is to big to go through the hole at the tip of the board.

There is also a line with a couple loops in it tied to the hiking strap, maybe 6' long. Will this be used for the daggerboard?

Cheers,
Danno

PS: What are the black plastic channels along each side of the cockpit? Toeholds?

 

[Rob B]

Nice Cat! The line that is on the dagger board is the old stock "clew hook". Run this through the clew of the main sail, around the boom and hook it together. Other than that it look like you've done a good job of rigging the boat. The black rails in the cockpit are called "grab rails". They are used as hand holds and places to hook your toes under when you need to.

I don't know about the line on the hiking strap. You need to get a long bungee cord and tie it through the hole on the front of the dagger board and run it to the fitting on the bow and make sure it is tight.

 

[Sonex]

Thanks, Rob.

I'm thinking of getting the clew sleeve. It's $45, but about the same as a $20 strap and $27 shackle/block. I'll be no racer, but want to be able to depower in a hurry if I ever threaten a dock, or something. Should the sleeve work with my older boom?

Also decided to get new lines, except for the main and outhaul. I've copied the line dimensions from some laser site. Hopefully this will do the trick.

Cheers,
Danno

 

[mjbhawg]

Try Rooster sailing for the clew strap, go ahead and check your mainsheet line,
its worth the money I got a New England Bzzz great. Check your centerboard break
thingy it might need replacing and get a swivel for the vang. Good sailing we got
a tropical depression off our coast now...

 

[mjbhawg]

Did you say clew sleeve. well please read the thread from raymi," laser outhaul clew
sleeve thingy"

 

[Sonex]

I see what you mean about the clew sleeve. Maybe a Harken clew hook/block combo #394 and a clew strap would be simpler, thanks.

And I googled for a swivel vang. Not many places list it. Would that go between the mast and the lower vang block?

Also am getting that rubber daggerboard brake and board bungee from Intensity. They also have $10 clew straps.

Thanks,
Danno

 

[mjbhawg]

Thats what I use the Harken hook and block and that is the swivel. It looks like
the jam cleat block on the vang is at the boom so instal there. I turned mine
around so the jam will be at mast and swivel is there. Go to the thread "vang"
there is a good site on vangs and etc.

 

[Rob B]

I'd go w/the clew sleeve. It's much easier to rig and it will never weather like the strap will.

 

[Wavedancer]

I'd go w/the clew sleeve. It's much easier to rig and it will never weather like the strap will.

I often agree with Rob B, but this time, I think that the strap is the way to go for you, since you won't be racing right away (see mjbhawg's post) and you will save some $$ too.

PS: Make sure those grab rails are in good shape. You will be using them after a swim ....

 

[Sonex]

Thanks, guys

I checked out the vang threads. Best site I found was on RoosterSailing.com, http://roostersailing.com/articles/Info_Sheet_4_Laser_Rigging.html. It gave me enough step-by-step pics to figure things out. So I copied that on my rigging. The line I used in my pics is a bit fatter than what I'll end up getting. I think that is why the 'locking knots' that go around the mast block (the one with the V-jammer) tended to creep up a little.

I made a few changes in the blocks. Switched my boom block with my mast block so the double block w/ v-jammer is on the mast. It needs a swivel. Single block with becket was replaced with a double block on the mast, cuz I had it laying around. Also had an air block (?) that I used.

Assuming I have this rigged correctly, all I need to do is figure out how much line I'll need for it. The old style said 10', and there's 2 more vang lengths with this system, so 14' should be plenty? And should 3/16" work, or do I need to go smaller?

Thanks,
Dan

PS: pics were taken with boat on it's side, so ignore the sideways trees