Alright curouscity is getting the best of me with this question. Ive heard that its not such a good idea to pull the deck from the hull, why is it such a forbidden task? If it is how else are yo supposed to inpect between these two pieces? Ive got an older sunny around late 60's to early 70's so inm wondering if i should do this?
Hull seperation
- Thread starter Falcon
- Start date
It's by no means forbidden. 
There's those mythical Sunfish Police again.
Most repairs can be done easily by installing 1, 2, and sometimes 3 inspection ports. From reading new owner's of older Fish first impressions over the years it's a sometimes misconception the hull easily lifts apart once the aluminum edging is removed. Why not just lift the lid and fix stuff. Sounds good, but it's much more involved in reality. Loosing the whole deck (not the right way anyway) leads to cracks at the mast tube, dagger board sleeve, and footwell. These tend to become leaks after the deck is reattached. The deck in most years has a crown. Refitting and reestablishing the proper crest isn't an easy task for owners uninitiated to major boat repair.
Search past posts here, read the back issues of Windward Leg, peruse the Class FAQ, and (I don't' understand your reluctance to go look since you have already been steered this way) read the guide assembled by more than a thousand contributing members at Sunfish Sailors. Between all these resources you should be able to get not only a good idea of how extensive a job it is splitting the hull, but also easier ways to fix just about everything under the hood without putting the integrity of your hull in jeopardy.
There's those mythical Sunfish Police again.Most repairs can be done easily by installing 1, 2, and sometimes 3 inspection ports. From reading new owner's of older Fish first impressions over the years it's a sometimes misconception the hull easily lifts apart once the aluminum edging is removed. Why not just lift the lid and fix stuff. Sounds good, but it's much more involved in reality. Loosing the whole deck (not the right way anyway) leads to cracks at the mast tube, dagger board sleeve, and footwell. These tend to become leaks after the deck is reattached. The deck in most years has a crown. Refitting and reestablishing the proper crest isn't an easy task for owners uninitiated to major boat repair.
Search past posts here, read the back issues of Windward Leg, peruse the Class FAQ, and (I don't' understand your reluctance to go look since you have already been steered this way) read the guide assembled by more than a thousand contributing members at Sunfish Sailors. Between all these resources you should be able to get not only a good idea of how extensive a job it is splitting the hull, but also easier ways to fix just about everything under the hood without putting the integrity of your hull in jeopardy.
Is this something that you would recomend me to do, with an older fish? Just to check out how well its held up. I do have a through crack in the bottom of the hull right below the foot well. I do understand from my research thus far i can do a blind fiberglass patch. But would you suggest it?
Is this something that you would recomend me to do, with an older fish? Just to check out how well its held up over the years. I do have a through crack in the bottom of the hull right below the foot well but it dosent pass through to the foot well. I do understand from my research thus far i can do a blind fiberglass patch. But would you suggest it?
A crack in the hull beneath the footwell is a tough spot. The tub rests right on the hull so neither an inspection port or opening the hull will give you a view or access from the inside.
If it were me I’d open the crack from the outside just enough (maybe about ¼”) to build it out with resin and cut up matting topped by gelcoat to match the hull. If you aren’t a stickler for cosmetics Marine-Tex putty in white would be a quick fix. You have the footwell tub for backing so getting behind the crack to build up reinforcing layers won’t be crucial. You do want to work the putty between the hull and the tub if there’s a slight opening, not just fill the crack.
If it were me I’d open the crack from the outside just enough (maybe about ¼”) to build it out with resin and cut up matting topped by gelcoat to match the hull. If you aren’t a stickler for cosmetics Marine-Tex putty in white would be a quick fix. You have the footwell tub for backing so getting behind the crack to build up reinforcing layers won’t be crucial. You do want to work the putty between the hull and the tub if there’s a slight opening, not just fill the crack.