How to repair bent spar

stevie jr

New Member
I have a bent upper spar that starts from where the halyard is tied and because of the high cost of shipping want to repair it by sliding a foot length piece of aluminum pipe over the area ,so it acts as a supportive sleeve.does anyone know if this is feasible?seems it would also make it stronger.
 
A regular chain link fence pipe from Lowes fits nicely inside a Sunfish spar. Tap a 2' piece down to the weak spot and add a couple screws or rivets. If you need a longer piece to get it straight, you will start to add to the weight, but I don't think that's a issue for sailing. I have also heard of using wooden closet rod but that's probably not as rigid.
 
A regular chain link fence pipe from Lowes fits nicely inside a Sunfish spar. Tap a 2' piece down to the weak spot and add a couple screws or rivets. If you need a longer piece to get it straight, you will start to add to the weight, but I don't think that's a issue for sailing. I have also heard of using wooden closet rod but that's probably not as rigid.

Thank you so much for that reply. In fact I did see that chain link pipe in the store. I believe the size is 1 3/8 ....I was just concerned it if it would fit.
 
A regular chain link fence pipe from Lowes fits nicely inside a Sunfish spar. Tap a 2' piece down to the weak spot and add a couple screws or rivets.
While on the subject of splicing, I've successfully spliced a broken Sunfish mast using a new "leftover" exhaust pipe—free from a Meinecke muffler shop. It's really heavy now:oops: but it won't break there again!:cool:
 
LVW - I have a spare mast if you need one. It's a Phantom mast, so it's black, but it's the same thing only different :)
 
I made a new spar for 50 $ .....went to the metal supply house and they had the exact specs and 6061 aluminum ,got 2 pieces about 7 ft long added a 1 3/8 splice riveted them together and was done.as good as a 13ft 8 inch full size spar.
 
The ad at the bottom of the page suggests carbon fiber tubing as a lightweight alternative to pipe.

("Dragon Plate" brand).
 
While on the subject of splicing, I've successfully spliced a broken Sunfish mast using a new "leftover" exhaust pipe—free from a Meinecke muffler shop. It's really heavy now:oops: but it won't break there again!:cool:

When Sunfish masts do break, very often it is right at the deck level, right at the top of the mast step. When that happens it is a bummer to be sure, but there are a couple of silver linings, as they say.

If we even off the end of the mast at the break, and put the end-cap there, we have almost exactly.....a Minifish mast ( or an original Sailfish mast). I got myself a Minifish mast that way ( unintentionally) to supplement my M2 rig.

For those who don't give a hoot about Minifish, there are also Sunfish uses for that shortened mast. For recreational heavy air use, we will note the the deck- level broken masts are also almost the same height as.....a Jens tie- off point. By using this shortened mast on heavy air days, we get all of the benefits of a Jens rig, without the complications. For most sailors this is preferable to tie-ing off a Jens, and for the KISS types among us, less fussy and maybe safer. And for kids - anyone under say, 100 pounds, this 'permanent Jens' setting is more efficient in most if not all conditions.

So I look at a broken but recapped mast, shortened to this Jens length, as an addition to the arsenal. Or maybe a gift to your leightweight Sunfish (or Minifish) friends.
 
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Thanks.

Did I ever show the effect of a microburst on a Sunfish mast and racing sail?

(Yes, the end of the mast shown is bent—and shortened).
 

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