Homemade questions

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papayamon2

Member
I just acquired an older ('73) Sunfish yesterday. The price was right (free!!), but there are some items that need attention (besides two hours of green slime removal). I'm not planning to race and only want use the boat recreationally. So here are a few questions so far:

1) The rudder is original, but the tiller has been replaced at some point. It's pretty rotten and in need of replacement. If I make something myself, what are my options? I'm not really geared up for mahogany woodworking and was wondering about aluminum tubing, etc. Are there decent options using such materials? Or is there some other quick/cheap fix?

2) The tiller extension is missing. Again, if I were to make one myself, what would be a good material, and what length should it be? (I have a universal joint that should be adaptable to attach it to the tiller.)

3) The centerboard is also homemade from some sort of softer wood. It has a couple of rotten places that need to be filled, the largest being about 4" long and 2" wide and the rest quite a bit smaller. What would be the optimal material to use to patch it?

4) The centerboard is only 9" wide instead of 9 1/2". Is that going to be a problem?

5) I haven't been able to remove the rudder pin yet. It seems to be pretty well bonded to the aluminum housing of the rudder bracket, so I can't press it up to release it from the stern of the boat. Aside from PB Blaster, is there any other trick? I've tried tapping and turning w/ vice grips, but no luck so far. I can cut it and replace it, but I'm trying to get it out w/ a minimum of destruction.

6) The sail was left out in the sun and shredded. I've been looking at some of the generics--has anyone had success w/ such? Again, I'm not concerned about being class legal, but I do want decent performance. (I tried to type the name of a particular company I found and ask about it, but the name was blotted out on the "preview post"--is it taboo to discuss generic companies on the forum? Not trying to break any rules, but just wanting some help.)

I guess that's enough questions for the moment. Thanks to anyone who has some answers!

Kevin
 
I'm not a wood worker so others will have to recommend what wood you can use to make your own rudder replacements. Just remember it has to be really strong. When its blowing hard out alot of stress is put on these components, more than what you realize.

You might want look here at the for sale part as stuff comes up and also ebay has non-original stuff all the time.

As for the rudder pins, the brackets on the boat might be bent a little, causing the pin not to come up. It should just pop up.

As for a sail, you can buy replacements that are pretty good. for about $150.
I have a non legal one, its fine. Get one with a window.
 
Thanks for the info so far. Re: the hockey stick, I actually thought of that myself since my son was working on reshaping a street hockey blade while I was surveying what needs to be done on the boat. Certainly seems stiff enough.

Re: the rudder pin, I think it's sort of welded on through electrolysis (stainless steel + aluminum) since the rudder was never removed for three or more years. It just sat on an old floating dock that was tilted due to a bad float, w/ the rear of the Sunfish in the water at times. If it wasn't in a very protected inlet, I imagine the boat would have blown away a couple of years back. Very neglected, but fortunately not much worse for the wear--except for a very stuck rudder pin. I haven't had a chance to work on it again today, though. Hoping a good soaking of PB Blaster will have a positive effect.

Anyone have a length on the tiller extension? Also, re: the centerboard, I've seen "high performance wood filler" (chemically the same thing as Bondo). Anyone used such stuff, or have a better recommendation?

Kevin
 
From the “Wish I’d Thought of That” Dept.

Hockey Stick - Wow - Just look at the options, Wood, Aluminum, Fiberglass, even Carbon fiber. And it could be made into the extension too. My next drop-in game is gonna include a shopping trip to the busted equipment barrel. Bet one of those laminate ash sticks would finish up to look as classy as a yacht tiller.



I haven't been able to remove the rudder pin yet. It seems to be pretty well bonded to the aluminum housing of the rudder bracket

Some sort of dissimilar metals electrolytic action. Has the boat seen saltwater – my guess is, yes. The tough nut is gonna be extracting the pin without cracking the aluminum head. If you’ve removed the snap clip cutting could determine if only one or both journals are frozen, then again it could just reduce the amount of pin you’d have to grab on to. I wonder if somewhere on the internet there’s a trick for attaching a wire to the aluminum, a wire to the stainless, and hooking in a flashlight battery to reverse the bond.

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Anyone have a length on the tiller extension?

Measurements are in the Class Rules at the Class web page ( http://www.sunfishclass.org/ISCA_CLASS_RULES_10052006.pdf ). Check out paragraph 3.4.1 I know you aren’t trying to make your family car NASCAR compliant, nor your recreational Sunfish Class Legal despite the plethora of self-appointed Sunfish KGB who whisper an incessant reminder whenever a deviant thought is uttered, nonetheless the specs do come in handy sometimes. Actually, the extension length is open and subjective to your favorite balance position and reach. My old style wood one is 2’, now replaced by a longer fiberglass extension and multi-directional universal joint.



Also, re: the centerboard, I've seen "high performance wood filler" (chemically the same thing as Bondo). Anyone used such stuff, or have a better recommendation?

You can mix up your own using fiberglass resin and clipped fibers. There’s lots of marine wood fillers available too. They’re basically polyester or epoxy with different additives for different purposes. Just stay away from stuff for auto bodys and furniture since they have a reputation for cracking out or taking on moisture. There’s a thinned epoxy for saturating and stabilizing rotten wood called Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES). Evercoat makes a marine Bondo, but I think it’s white or pink like the car stuff so makes your bright work look like it has the pox.

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