hiking strap usage

FishHead

New Member
How low in the cockpit do you want the strap installed. I gather that you hook your feet under it for hiking out, so lower is better?
 
As low as possable, on a 420 the hicking straps are quite high and allow for people of all leg lenghts to sucessfully hick. Make sure you have enough slack for you to hick out enough. It's really up to you, how ever you feel comfortable. Happy Drilling.
 
FishHead said:
How low in the cockpit do you want the strap installed. I gather that you hook your feet under it for hiking out, so lower is better?


Vanguard installs the strap about 2" off the floor of the cockpit. Works for me :)
 
The height can be adjusted to your preference with a couple of feet of strong sail tie line attached to one end of the strap and routed through the eye. Let more line out to raise the strap, tighten it up to make the strap closer to the bottom of the cockpit.
 
With farupp's suggestion about adjusting the height with longer line (mine is at the rear loop), use one of bungie cord loops with a ball on it (short, about 8" long) to hold it off the floor. Run your Hiking Strap through the loop before tying the line, then hook the loop over your main sheet block (before running your mainsheet through the block)
 
Here are 2 pictures to show what I did to retro fit my '69 SF (no storage area). The strap is one obtained from Vanguard, the front mounted about 2" up and the rear mounted about 1-1/2" up. A 2" strap bar holds the front and an eye strap for the rear with some line. Both anchor points are backed up with a 1/8" thick aluminum plate (3" x 4"). The red are the bungees with ball (an extra is next to a 12" ruler). The ball give you something to grab when removing it from around the block and does not interfere with the block or main sheet.
 

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Cubbie, great idea with the bungey. I always liked a high strap but had to leave it loose for low winds when I was down in the cockpit and when the wind came up it was a pain searching for the strap with your toes on the floor of the boat...LOL
It gives you the best of both worlds.
 
Cubbie, now that you mention in the "hiking question" post about needing the inspection ports (# determined by whether the boat has a cuddy or not), I need to see pics of the ports before I feel confident cutting holes in the deck of my boat. would you mind getting some real close ups for me. your other shots of the hiking strap were so great. thanks!
 
Fish,

No problem. Both boats (with & with out cubby) need a forward port (6") between the splash rail and dagger board slot (normal location for a forward port). The older boats with out a storage compartment will also need a 4" port for the rear wall of the cockpit to attach the rear mount. Locate the rear port about 6-1/2" to 7-1/2" from the side wall and centered vertically in the rear wall (don't install until eye strap is done). I used a single eye strap with #10 Stainless Steel Oval Head Machine screws, #10 SS Fender Washers (or other backing plate) and SS Ny-lock nuts for the rear mount. The eye strap is centered about 1-1/2" above the floor. Mark, drill and install with some silicon or 3M 4200/5200 (I used 3M Marine Silicon applied to the washers, under the eye strap and under the screw heads). Install the port. At the front, I used a 2" strap bar about 2" off the floor and installed it the same way through the 6" port. Put the hiking strap on the bar before you screw the bar down. Alternate method is to use the flat plate over the strap as shown in the FAQs in the SF Class home page. One picture is of the front end, The other pictures are of the rear end and of the inside of the 4” port taken from the stern port.
 

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Fish,

The attached picture is of the front mount taken from the 6" port behind the splashrail. I used a piece of aluminum (about 2" by 4") instead of fender washers. The front is easier when the 6" port is already installed. The rear takes a little more time with the installation of the cockpit port, but it only took about a half hour for me (a little longer if you have to install both ports). The tan area on the right side of the picture is the dagger board well.
 

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All good stuff. The main thing on the newer 'fish is to have something to keep it off the floor so you can hook it quickly. These puffy lake winds are treacherous. At the same time, you want to be able to sit comfortably down into the cokpit when necessary. . . so you don't want anything hard and obtrusive. One piece of bungee works pretty well.
 
LAuman,

That doesn't apply only to newer SF, any SF having a hiking strap will benefit. Exactly what I posted a few days ago on the 21st of Aug. The 8" tarp bungees (red lines in the pictures) are cheap, readily available, have enough give that you hardly notice them when sitting or kneeling on the strap, while keeping the strap up for your feet to easily get under.
 

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