Mother of sailboats
I just found an Ace Hardware going out of business - 80% off everything. What size brass screws were used on sailfish and other wooden boats??
I read somewhere that the mast step uses the oval rounded ;-). So I’ve got a use for the long ones at leastI'm not sure the roundhead screws will see much use, so those can be sold to buy tapered drill bits.
Whoops again! Looks like the rounded don’t go very long. Perhaps I’ll make one more trip north today to see if any gems remain. I also got a gallon of the veneer adhesive that I need for $10!I read somewhere that the mast step uses the oval rounded ;-). So I’ve got a use for the long ones at least
Thanks for the heads up on the tapered bit. I’m still very much a beginner on so much of this, but I love the learning I get from this forum’s feedback!!
You and Skipper are treasures! I’m fastening back on the deck and deck hardware on the late 1950’s (I think) wooden Sailfish. I think some of the original screws for the deck hardware might survive just fine, but I know many of those used to secure the deck itself have had their tops sheared down by a lady who hasn’t learned to properly control her radial sander…What do you need to fasten? I should have mentioned that there is plenty of stainless on the fiberglass boat boat as well, so we match like material fasteners with similar material parts where we can. My brain immediately reverts to the wooden boats, in a saltwater environment, where bronze is time honored.
Brass or stainless will be okay for many years. Marine grade stainless, like 316, holds up better because of its mix of metals, so it's used with marine grade aluminum on newer boats (ex aluminum backer plates in 1988 and newer boats). What we like to avoid is using stainless with aluminum, as dissimilar metal corrosion will happen fast in a saltwater environment. One example is when folks use stainless rivets on boom eyestraps.
Some ACE hardware stores have excellent marine stainless sections, compared to the "stainless" that Lowes or Home Depot sells. When we need quality bronze or stainless we look for marine supply houses, like Fairwinds Fasteners, Jamestown Distributors or Hamilton Marine.
1) I sold a large collection of grommets for big money on Craigslist. I'm not sure the roundhead screws will see much use, so those can be sold to buy tapered drill bits.
(Wood screws are tapered, so they should be "started" with a tapered drill bit. Seen any lately? Fortunately, inexpensive bits are made today in the exact sizes).
2) During periods of hyper-inflation, it's better to have "things" than cash.
So it's a good idea to stock up on Sunfish parts. What will be the price of Sunfish bailers in a few years? They've already passed the $50 threshold!
WARRIOR Screw Extractor and Left-Hand Drill Bit Combo Set, 10 Piece - Item 61981 / 40349 / 63987 Screw Extractor and Left-Hand Drill Bit Combo Set, 10 PiecePerhaps some of the old screws will be hard to remove. Drill them out.
Consider using drill bits of the "left-hand" variety. They drill using the reverse switch, and can both drill-out the screw (in pieces) or better, to cause the screw to back out (slowly).
A set in a metal container cost $8 a few years ago at Harbor Freight.
There are a few other "drives". I have a bit that one might call, "Tri-Lobe", used in aircraft. (Never have used it).. As for what type of driver to use, Philips, flat, square, Torx, star, Frearson head, etc...as mentioned above it takes the right type bit for the screw. The bits can't be worn, you name a bit, I've stripped that type screw head when the bit gets worn. Or stripped when using Big Box Store "Stainless" or "brass" versus the true stainless, brass or bronze. We like Frearson head screws, similar to Phillips, but they do require a Frearson bit. Other folks reside soundly in their straight slot camps or square drive camps. One Old School trick for bronze screws is to use the old timey brace and bit to put the screw in, so you can feel if the fit is getting too tight. Using a power driver there is not nearly as much feel. Wax or soap can help, but make sure the lubricant used is compatible with the screw material, to prevent fastener corrosion.
Everyone should get one of these, a ratcheting bit brace. Plus some nice auger bits and a piece of good old soft pine. Cut some holes for therapy. This system cuts holes almost as clean and fast as a carpenter bee. You can cut slow enough to feel the auger bit tip poke out the opposite side, then back the bit out and go around to the other side to finish the cut. There are also screwdriver bits and bit adapters. The tool below is now our son's, passed down from Skipper, who got it from her Grandma Nelson. On very rare occasions I was allowed to use it, so I bought my own recently.
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Carpenter bee, found in a plank that I was scarfing.
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Bee went dead straight through this 10 inch long chock.
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