Hardware

acs026

acs026

Member
So I am almost done redoing the bottom of my boat project. I will soon be moving to the top. I removed all the hardware because I am planning on painting and then wanted to replace all of the 1965 hardware. So the question is. What is the best way to back / reattach hardware? splash guard as well? One of my biggest question....is should I try to cover the holes with fiberglass and redo new ones? Or what is the best plan of action. Thanks in advance.
 
The best way to back hardware is steel plates and machine screws. What happened to the bronze anchors for your splashguard? You can get some new anchors at the hardware store if you want to remain with screws in the splash guard. Might be just as easy to go with pop rivets although screws allow you to remove the guard to avoid damage when working on the bottom of the boat.
 
I'm just now finishing up my 64 SF. I repaired and painted the deck. I am using all ss through bolts and locking nuts. I had removed all of the hardware for the painting. I used aluminum rivets for the rub rail, a new plywood block and ss nuts and bolts for the bow handle ( I epoxied the block first ) Dabs of dow 4200 at each bolt. 2 1/8"rivets for the new drain, and dabbed the 4200. I had reinforced areas with plywood, so through bolts for the halyard pulley,and cleat ( again, dabs of 4200). I soaked and cleaned the broonze tiller hardware and reused the original block ( block was fine, just used a tad longer wood lags and dabs of 4200) I even tried to restore the brass chain look!
The coaming was a challenge. I had the old brass inserts that, spun while removing, so I had to saw zall (flush cut) the screws and drill out the old brass inserts. I had reinforced the aea between the 2 foam blocks infront of the centerboard trunk with plywood. I had read how members said to just rivet the coaming back on with aluminum rivet, I had 1/4" holes and 3/16" rivets wont work unless I were to re glass over and drill new. Back up rivet washers can't be used where the foam blocks are, unless I were to cut out big areas of foam, also the 5 center holes were now backed with plywood, so rivets didn't seem the choice. I also want to use 4200 around each hole and I wanted to do "dry runs" first, rivets would not allow that. So I bought 8 aluminun rivet nuts for the 8 outer screw (4 on each side) holes and pass through bolts for the remaining 5 center ones. now I can dry fit it to get a good idea on how it will look before I attach it permanently. Good thing too, the coaming has to spread a bit to fit back in place, and the gaps are big enough to worry about, but now I am able to be ready for it. The 8 new rivet nuts went in easy, so now I will use machine screws for the entire coaming, and will be able to control the attaching and caulking as I tighten it on.
 
Large stainless washers should suffice for backing any Sunfish Hardware, the loads are not that high. If you want to use backing plates you can make them out of a synthetic such as nylon or Delrin, easy to work with and no corrosion, not to mention light.
 
Are you guys removing the decks and if so, how? And if not, how do you do backing plates (can't all be through access ports)? :confused:
 
davavd said:
Are you guys removing the decks and if so, how? And if not, how do you do backing plates (can't all be through access ports)? :confused:
Click to expand...


Removing the decks, from reading previous post, are very difficult, and most don't even recomend it. Replacing backer plates, would be done through cut-in access ports, as disscussed in previous posts. But, the coaming can be re-installed without installing new backers (I don't believe SF ever came with coaming backers installed at the factory). Not everthing on the deck needs backers.
 
To emphasize earlier posts, the only fittings that can get loaded are:

  • Bow handle (especially when the boat is being towed)
  • Halyard bulls eye (use a mast cleat to significantly lower the load)
  • Halyard cleat (again, with a mast cleat the load will be much lower)
  • Eye strap for the block (directly accessible from the cockpit)
  • Attachments for the hiking strap
  • Traveler eye straps
  • Rudder (gudgeon bracket)

I am not sure where Performance Laser installs backing plates these days. Bow handle, (rudder) gudgeon bracket, and halyard pad eye + cleat?
 
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