Joel2, from this posting—for background:I was able to turn boat over (by making a drainage hole) and got water out of sunfish. I started the leak test. So far just found a few along the metal trim. There has to be more given the amount of water that was in there. In the meantime I was going to order inspection ports, if someone has a preference or if all the same, is there a better deal. I need to start ventilating.
My question is, if I should keep the ports at a minimum, how do I know best places, if I can't see inside yet?
Also how do I fix holes where metal trim is? All I see is fiberglass repair instructions. Thank you
I need to start ventilating.
Check the specs on the muffin fan. You'll want one that is about 6", and runs on 110-120v household current If the Sunfish is to dry outdoors, one with a metal cage would help to keep yard debris from fouling the blades. One would be enough, but what do they cost, $10 apiece?The hole was drilled at the lowest point on the rear of the boat while the boat was upside down and filled with water. How to patch that? Now the boat is right side up, but still on the ground. I'm sure on the trailer would be better? I will search for the year of the boat. I looked up muffin fan and I feel like I will close my eyes and pick any that look nice. Don't know what I am looking for. Also I'm unclear exactly where this is going. On the inside of the 6" hole or outside? with a venting? Wait to put 2 fans? Only start with one? I'm removing yellow and white foam that is very soft? You don't think I have a leak? The boat was not tilted really. The 90 degree seam between the deck and the cockpit tub is leaking? But I didn't see any bubbles in the cockpit. Not really sure where exactly you are referring? Any help is great!!
I'm seeing used fans for 99 cents! They do last forever, and for that kind of money, there's nothing around to beat that. Get a milk crate for rain protection, plug it in, and visit every few weeks.sorry for not knowing anything at all;
here's the
fan,
I just want to make sure this will be safe to run long term, outside under a tarp, without monitoring (I'm not at the location for maybe weeks at a time).Just plug it in and that's all that's needed? Or there's one that has a high speed:
link
thank you for the link and any additional info.
Really the 2 extremely small bubbles I found I'm sure is not the way the whole boat filled up with water. First time out my boys got stuck under an overpass bridge, the mast is bent! I'm thinking this is where the damage is. How do I do a leak test inside that area? How do I even reach it? Still go with 6" and 4"? Why not bigger?
thanks
Fill up the mast hole. If it doesn't leak down, there's no harm. If it does leak down, drain it out. You've still got months of drying ahead.The mast is bent. Also, I don't see a smaller drain hole. I really should fill up the mast hole!? After finally getting the water out of the boat.
If you haven't made a second cut, deal with the wooden backing block. It's a lot easier than repairing one's over-exuberant fiberglass removal. To cut away the wood, you may need to rent (or borrow) a wood router.I'm moving the inspection port slightly forward. It will intersect the circle I have now. I don't understand the reason to keep it where it is and deal with what's in the way under it. Please give me a reason not to do that.
Remove enough white foam as if a four-inch inspection port had been installed instead. The objective has always been to dry out the boat's interior. All you need is a vent. Nobody's going to inspect what's under your inspection port.After cutting this intersecting circle which is a few inches forward, I need to cut out the white foam under it. Can I do without this amount of foam? Then let the boat dry out and patch the old circle (along with I still don't know what else).
Nobody's going to inspect what's under your inspection port.