Frozen Scupper - Need Advice

C

CarlRalph

New Member
I am the proud owner of a late-60's Alcort Sunfish. This particular model has an aluminium self-bailer. Unfortunately, time (and too many salt water adventures) has taken its toll on the bailer. At this point, it is frozen in the closed position. It has not responded to the WD-40 nor the Carb cleaner that were recommended to me as good tools to "unseize" aluminum parts. I wouldn't be too worried about it, except that the retaining nut that seals it to the inside of the cockpit has broken and I cannot replace it until I can figure out how to get the top off the bloody thing :confused: .

Two Questions: 1) with this type of bailer, do you turn it or pull on it to open the bailer (when its not frozen up, obviously), and 2) any suggestions on either how to "unsieze" the parts or remove it for replacement without knocking a hole in the glass?
 
The bailer works with several small holes drill through the threads and a plastic ball that supposedly seals the bailer off when it's not drawing. You unscrew the top to expose the holes.
As for getting the top off...I've sawed off several bailers where the top was frozen. Tape the underside of the hull where the bailer mount to keep from scratching it and use an unmounted hacksaw blade between the bailer body and the hull. Takes time but it comes off. The new plastic bailers are fairly expensive for what you get, but you can at least get replacement parts.
 
I've also heard of folks hacksawing the in the tub cap into pieces to remove it from the hull. I can't say I've heard of someone successfully breaking the corrosion/salt/sand once it's seized. Heat might help, but you have to be careful because of the fiberglass. We've tried monkey wrenches with pipe extensions to really up the grip and forces but only succeeded in getting the thing off, not in saving/resurrecting. If you can save it, they are the bailers that work the best, but the key to saving them is to keep them rinsed, lubed, and constantly used so they don't seize. If you want to go sailing, the best thing to do it get the aluminum one off and replace it with the pricier plastic one ...
 
I too recently went through this problem and used the hacksaw blade method..Although I think that a dremmel tool would be much quicker if used carefully..

I cut the top of the plunger off first, then went to work on the nut.Once you have the nut cut through, you can use a screwdriver or a chisel to GENTLY tap the nut off the bailer, which then allows you to tap the bailer down through the hull and you are ready to install the new one...

Hope this helps..

Mike
 
Carl,

Wind Line Sails has a "How-To" section with an article on removing the old metal bailer. I just replaced the one in my brothers boat. I was able to unscrew the cap (with some grunting) and used a Dremel with a fiberglass reinforced cutting wheel to cut the retaining nut (and bailer) in 3 places, placed a screwdriver in the slots and twisted, the nut pieces just popped off and the bailer was free. The hole was a tight fit around the bailer and I had to use some persuasion (tapping lightly with a hammer) to get it out. A light sanding cleaned up the hole and removed the "gunk" of years of neglect. The new plastic bailer went in with out any problems. I did not use the black gasket, but did use a generous amount of silicon, both in and out around the shaft and also around the outside hull/bailer joint. No leaks. Good Luck.
 
Carl,

If you are using an angle grinder, be careful of heat. You can melt/burn the fiberglass which would not be a good thing.
 
Hi,
Simply take a chisel and break the nut. I have done it countless times as I used to own a dealership and it was a prevalent problem
Herb
 
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