Friction in outhaul fairlead

dave101

New Member
I seem to have a lot of friction in my outhaul (rigged 4:1). The mail culprit seems to be the fairlead (at the end of the boom). I'm not sure if it is the fairlead itself or the fact it is rubbing against the knot in the fairlead. I was hoping to just tie a block onto it and use this instead, but the rules say that:

'(it) shall pass through the boom outhaul fairlead as a moving line at least once'.

But it looks like can actually attach a block

'An “Optional’ block may be attached to the outhaul fairlead, provided Rule 3(f)ii is also satisfied'

So I can attach the block - but I still have to run the rope though the fairlead. Does anyone have this problem or a solution?
 
You can attach blocks to certain points of the outhaul system (like the clew of the sail), but I believe the line itself must pass throught the fairlead.

What sort of line are you using? This can make a big difference in the amount of friction. I use a fairly narrow diameter spectra (whicy may be called dyneema now).
 
>You can attach blocks to certain points of the outhaul system (like the clew of the sail), but I believe the line itself must pass throught the fairlead.

I was just thinking I could attach a double block to the clew and a single block with becket to the fairlead

>What sort of line are you using? This can make a big difference in the amount of friction. I use a fairly narrow diameter spectra (whicy may be called dyneema now).

I don't know what it is called. It came as part of the upgrade kit, it is red and has some kind of PTFE like coating.
 
I was just thinking I could attach a double block to the clew and a single block with becket to the fairlead.

I don't think that will cut it. The line has to pass through the fairlead

I don't know what it is called. It came as part of the upgrade kit, it is red and has some kind of PTFE like coating.

It used to be the spectra was white, but it comes different colors now. It you say PTFE like coating, it's probaby spectra. It's much more slippery that other lines.

Since you appear to be already using spectra, I can suggest two things. One, try a narrower line. Second, change the way you tie it. You want to make sure the line is rubbing against the fairlead itself and not the knot.

Here are some excellent pictures from the APS website (a TLF sponsor!). Look at pictures #6. The outhaul line runs underneath the knot through the fairlead and doesn't rub against the knot. I think this tends to minimize the friction. You have rope-plastic friction instead of rope-rope.

http://apsltd.smugmug.com/gallery/9144056_LGNzG/1/609855327_Et6MM#609855132_CNMWY
 
> I don't think that will cut it. The line has to pass through the fairlead

Yes, but by the time I run the line through it will have 4x less load on it!

>It used to be the spectra was white, but it comes different colors now. It you say PTFE like coating, it's probaby spectra. It's much more slippery that other lines.

It is like the rope in the pictures you sent

>Since you appear to be already using spectra, I can suggest two things. One, try a narrower line.

OK I could try that

> Second, change the way you tie it. You want to make sure the line is rubbing against the fairlead itself and not the knot.

Yes, I noticed this in Paul Goodsons book. But I don't think this will work on my metal fairlead as it has a slightly different shape. Maybe I need to get a plastic one

>Here are some excellent pictures from the APS website (a TLF sponsor!). Look at pictures #6. The outhaul line runs underneath the knot through the fairlead and doesn't rub against the knot. I think this tends to minimize the friction.

Yes this is like the picture in the book, it will probably help as you say

> You have rope-plastic friction instead of rope-rope.

Well rope-metal in my case!
 
All good info above, I'll add that a 4-1 purchase is marginal, will work in lighter air (under 10, but above that you really want to have 6-1)

Also make sure you are using a good clew tiedown system, that adds a ton of friction as well if it's not sliding decently

As others have stated, adding the block to the boom fairlead is not legal, but you can try it to prove/disprove your idea that all the friction is at the fairlead. It should be easier, but not a lot.
 
> Also make sure you are using a good clew tiedown system, that adds a ton of friction as well if it's not sliding decently

Does the metal slider have less friction than the clew strap?
 
I also have the metal fairlead - I don't think the friction difference between it and the plastic is enough to feel in the pull at the end of a purchase system.
 
> Also make sure you are using a good clew tiedown system, that adds a ton of friction as well if it's not sliding decently

Does the metal slider have less friction than the clew strap?

Major disagreement on that one - when it works, people report good things about the metal slider - when it doesn't, people want to throw it in the water or at the head of one of the employees of LP! It seems to be about 50/50 around here on it working.

The majority of the people I see out sailing are using the clewstrap with a 6-1 outhaul and having no big issues
 
I have always used a 6:1 outhaul arrangement with a very thin 2.5mm V12 vectran rope as the secondary line (the one which passes through the fairlead). As you see in the APS pictures I don't have a loop around the boom as I found it sometimes snagged.

Make sure it isn't creating any friction anywhere else. You can do this by temporarily adding a block to the fairlead and if it has improved then that is obviously the place where the friction is.

I think it would really help you to get;

- a thin 2.5mm or thereabout size vectran or dyneema (roughly same thing)
- a plastic fairlead
- an extra purchase to make it 6:1

The other thing you are allowed to do is instead of adding an extra purchase at the block attached to the boom cleat, you can add the purchase at the clew block by using a block with a becket. This is done by going through the fairlead, then through the block, then through the fairlead again and onto the becket. The reason for this is it will stop the knot becoming any kind of a factor.
 
I also have the metal fairlead - I don't think the friction difference between it and the plastic is enough to feel in the pull at the end of a purchase system.

So are you able to stop the moving rope rubbing against the knot? I think this is my main problem
 
The other thing you are allowed to do is instead of adding an extra purchase at the block attached to the boom cleat, you can add the purchase at the clew block by using a block with a becket. This is done by going through the fairlead, then through the block, then through the fairlead again and onto the becket. The reason for this is it will stop the knot becoming any kind of a factor.

This is interesting - though there would be rubbing between the two ropes going different 'speeds'. So this would be 3 turning points. There would be 2 turning points by the mast so I can still have the block on the boom. This would be 6:1 aswell

Your other suggestions are also good
 
I
---snip---
The other thing you are allowed to do is instead of adding an extra purchase at the block attached to the boom cleat, you can add the purchase at the clew block by using a block with a becket. This is done by going through the fairlead, then through the block, then through the fairlead again and onto the becket. The reason for this is it will stop the knot becoming any kind of a factor.


I think we all agree that the fairlead adds extra friction to the system. That said, running the moving line twice thru the fairlead is going to add more friction instead of thru another block further down the line (at the mast for example)
 
I think I have plenty of suggestions now, thanks for all the replies. I will start by temporarily putting a block on the fairlead to make sure that it is the fairlead that is the problem. If so I can try a few of the other suggestions out
 

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