Those defects are awful!
You should sell that boat to me--right away!
MarineTex and a moderately-stiff plastic film would be your friend...
These look like mostly minor repairs, though the daggerboard trunk sure looks suspect for that leaky hull.
You definitely want to get the deck drain open. Do you have a very large flathead screwdriver (one of my favorite tools) and a can of PB Blaster?
After cleaning up the dings (removing all loose material, dremel or file as necessary, wipe with acetone) you can use Marine Tex as directed. The smallest 2 oz box will be more than enough for your needs. Be careful not to apply too much inside the fitted daggerboard trunk (if any is needed- a leak test first would be helpful)
L&VW is referring to putting ‘plastic film’ (I use Saran Wrap) over the repaired area. Stretch it tight over the Marine Tex, then use your finger to smooth out and blend in the repair. Leave the film on til the next day then it easily peels off.
It will make for less sanding (Marine Tex says on the box ‘Hardens like Steel’) and a nicer look.
The blaster will work. You should have a screwdriver the full width of the slot. Don't try to remove it in one shot work it let it work it again.
One of my six Sunfish arrived six years ago with a 3/16ths" hole drilled through the drain plug. I thought that was an excellent alternative to replacement. Then, PB Blaster can reach behind the plug. I plan to use my left-hand drill bits to remove the plug. Maybe next off-season?I already chipped the bronze flat head slot . I'll have to the drain open one way or another -- or install a deck access hole. Thanks.
Have you done a leak test?
For the best results, use white Gorilla tape.How far will duct tape get me?
As long as you don’t pump massive pressure into the hull the above is one thing you DON’T need to worry about.The leak test could introduce non-existing defects.
Please elaborate on the replacement option, how did you remove the old plug or did you just leave it and put a new plug somewhere else?Well, I have a pretty big screwdriver, but I'm not sure it's worth the cost of a really larger screwdriver plus a can of PB Blaster when I can replace the entire thing for $15 or so. Ah me.
Maybe drill a hole in it then use a screw extractor on a drill running in reverse?Please elaborate on the replacement option, how did you remove the old plug or did you just leave it and put a new plug somewhere else?
Search using the term PB Blaster using the search box in the upper right. Lots of discussion about how to remove the plug, most of which involve using PB Blaster.Maybe drill a hole in it then use a screw extractor on a drill running in reverse?
I did that but read mostly about fiberglass repair and advice to use PB Blaster with a very large flat screw driver (if I can find one). It was not all that clear to me. I get the impression people cut new holes for other drainage solutions, possibly cutting out the exisiting plug, laying fiberglass over the area and then cutting a new hole for a new plug. Unfortunately I did not find the conversation that helpful. That said, I will start with PB Blaster and a large screwdriver.As long as you don’t pump massive pressure into the hull the above is one thing you DON’T need to worry about.
I will elaborate. If a couple of weeks of periodic shots of PB Blaster, a bit of tapping and ideally a big screwdriver don’t free up the screw simply use a regular ‘ole flathead to pry the entire drain assembly from the deck. It’s easily done. There may be some sealant around that needs to be removed, but you will see the two small pins that hold the assembly to the deck.I did that but read mostly about fiberglass repair and advice to use PB Blaster with a very large flat screw driver (if I can find one). It was not all that clear to me. I get the impression people cut new holes for other drainage solutions, possibly cutting out the exisiting plug, laying fiberglass over the area and then cutting a new hole for a new plug. Unfortunately I did not find the conversation that helpful. That said, I will start with PB Blaster and a large screwdriver.
I tried the largest screw driver I could find (3/8) with PB Blaster first (soaked for 10 minutes). Tapped the driver with a hammer to jar things loose. Used downward pressure on the driver and turned it with vice grips. could not get the plug to budge.Maybe drill a hole in it then use a screw extractor on a drill running in reverse?
I haven't tried that. You are thinking a small hole in the plug? what solder do you use to close the hole?It'll drain slower, but drill a hole in the center of the drain plug.
It's normal for such "containers" to collect condensation overnight, and why the drain is there in the first place.
Spray more PB Blaster in through the hole, to reach and dissolve corrosion on the inside. As the plug eventually loosens (and function is restored) the hole can be soldered closed again.