beldar boathead
Married to Primat Boathead
As breeze bender said, it takes a few weeks of PB Blaster. 10 minutes is not sufficient.I haven't tried that. You are thinking a small hole in the plug? what solder do you use to close the hole?
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As breeze bender said, it takes a few weeks of PB Blaster. 10 minutes is not sufficient.I haven't tried that. You are thinking a small hole in the plug? what solder do you use to close the hole?
There are at least two lead solders--either will work. The are several types of Flux (a pre-cleaner, which also needs heat).I haven't tried that. You are thinking a small hole in the plug? what solder do you use to close the hole?
I must have missed the Saran-Wrap part...
Nice work! Make sure that daggerboard fits and you’re ready to sail!Here's my Marine Tex adventure. First the damage, then the initial application, and finally after sanding. I tried to sand the edges down to a perfect blend with the hull, but I was starting to buff the hull on the off-side of the edges as much as I was bringing the edges down and so I quit early. Consequently, many of the edges are still fractionally sharp, as you can see in the photos.. Likewise, I tried to sand the face of the Marine Tex smooth but eventually felt that I was removing protective material more than I was perfectly smoothing the surface, so again I quit. Since it's all bottom work, aesthetics don't matter anyway -- which is a good thing because the MT is vastly brighter white than the hull's apparently egg-shellish tone. The color mismatch is rather stark.
One thing I did was rub a pretty thick layer of MT all the way around the inside of the daggerboard hole to blend the transition between the bottom hull and the fiber glass slot. I could see (and feel with my finger) a pretty distinct edge that retreated back from the hull hole to the wider fiberglass slot and decided to taper the edge with MT all the way around the hole (the way you would quarter-round caulk a seam under other circumstances), with careful attention paid to not actually narrowing the hole in the hull very much. Since the fill only tapers from the narrower hole back to the slightly wider fiberglass slot, it won't represent a risk to fitting the daggerboard through the hull. Presumably this last step should help with any possible leaks that might occur along that transitional edge inside the bottom of the slot.
Or it might have been a huge waste of time and effort. Who knows. But I had MT to spare and you can't save it once you mix it, so...
Cheers!