Deck repair

Thread starter #1
I'm getting ready to finally repair my Phantom. The deck is slowly separating from the hull, allowing water to pour in when the boat keels. I saw a webpage about this type of repair, but can't find it any more. I know I have to saw out the remaining sealer and add new epoxy and clamp it all together. But I'd like to know what type/brand of epoxy I should use. Also, is the deck suppose to completly come off during this repair? Thanks.
Try Wind Line Sails "How-To" section. ( Dan has a section on hull/deck seperation as well as other repairs commonly needed to a Sunfish. Many feel that West Systems Epoxy (available in repair kits as well in gallons) is the one to use, but others such as Raka, MAS and System Three are also good products. Check with your local marine dealer(s) and find out what they recomend and/or use (it may be cheaper, available and have thickeners, pumps and other same brand products). Not being familiar with the Phantom, I can't answer about the deck coming off, but based on the Sunfish construction I would not think it would or should come off. Prying it apart just enough to clean out the seperation and to add the epxoy as the Windline article shows.
Thread starter #3
That was the page I have been looking for. Thanks. But something ocurred to me while reading about the repair work needed to be done: Can I take my boat somewhere for someone else to do the work? I hate working with chemicals. For, say, $50>$100 bucks?
try calling up some dealers like sunset sailboats. i know todd does repairs not sure if he does something like reattaching a deck or how much. he is located in hapatcong so i dont think its to far for you. his # is 973 663 1242.
You might also try an auto body shop if your local marine dealer/repair shop is not available to do the job. If you take the proper precautions (rubber gloves, long sleeves and adequate ventilation (outdoors) etc., working with epoxy is not that difficult. West Systems has a brochure about using epoxy (might be found at the dealer). A barrier cream under the gloves provides an extra bit of protection. Good luck either way you go.
my only advise is to make sure you don't disrupt the dagger board slot when trying remove the deck. but i think it would be really easy to fix that problem. i would remove the deck, and dry the whole boat out on the inside. then i would let it sit and dry out for a week or so in a garage or someplace. i think it would be a good idea to take advantage of having the deck off and the whole hull exposed.
Trust me, taking the entire deck off a fish results in a scrap boat. Between the mast step, dagger board slot and the bottom of the cockpit attachments there's all the foam block to deck connections.
It's not practical to seperate all them and try and reassemble them. Something always breaks that results in a problem beyond repair. Loose deck edges need to be cleaned out and re epoxied and clamped.
Again trust me you don't want to fool with a dagger board tube thats been cut loose or see the damage the attachments between the cockpit bottom and hull cause when taken apart.
Thread starter #9
Thanks for all the advice. I've decided to part ways with my Phantom. I just got an FJ and it is sucking up my boat budget. Had some good times and adventure with my Phantom. It was the perfect first boat. It's on the "for sale" board. It obviously needs some work. Looking for $350. Its in Alpine, NJ. Drop me an e-mail