Conversion to Harken 019

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Repete

Sunfish1909
I am replacing a Harken 240_150 cam-matic swivel cleat with the right hardware................the Harken 019 little hexaratchet.

My dilema is I have the three mounting holes of the previous H240 which are 1-1/16" apart. I guess I could use the two holes parallel to the beam of the boat. I found a Harken mini eyestrap with 1-1/16" mounting centers. I could use bolts and lock nuts with an aluminum plate below the deck for strength. I also could use the original swivel arm of the H240 by either mounting the 019 to the fairlead postion (1-1/16" spacing) or at the cam position (1-1/2" spacing). The trouble is the smaller eyestrap is only rated at 1,000 pounds. The 1-1/2" spacing gets me to stronger eyestraps. Would the smaller eyestrap and under plate be ok. Should I take advantage of the three mounting holes of the H240 and keep the the hardware on and just mount the H019 to the fairlead position and leave the cams on or off? Would the
H019 be too "floppy" out at the "cam" position"? I have attached a catalogue image of the H240 for clarification. Any ideas would be appreciated. I am trying not to drill any additional holes, but strength (pull-out) is a concern.
 

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  • Harken 240_150 Cam-matic.pdf
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The average sailor can hold the mainsheet without the aid of a block so the strain at the screws can't be much more than 30 pounds. The 1-1/16" eyestrap is what Harken recommends for use with a standup spring on the 019 Hexaratchet. Backing by plate or fender washers is the usual mounting.
 
Thank you for the clarification. Just one more question. Is the (Vanguard)
V10073 the eyestrap to use? I do not see the spacing of this strap's mounting holes. I found the spacing of 1-1/16" from a sailing (non Vanguard) hardware site. The eyestrap I am looking at is a Harken Micro Eyestrap HAR281.
 
I can't remember what the strap number was but I've used the original mounting holes from a cam-matic center cleat several times in replacing them with an 019.
 
The previous owner of my boat had the Cam-Matic swivel cleat mounted and kept it when I bought the boat from him. Of course that left me with 3 holes that could no longer be used with my set up which is a Harken HAR2608 40mm Carbo Ratchet block mounted to a Harken HAR201 eyestrap. I pondered over this attachment for a while before I finally committed to installation.

I had a couple of choices here on which way to go: a.) mount the block on the inside lip of the cock pit, or b.) drill new holes to mount on top of the deck close to the previous swivel cleat location. I opted for choice b.

What I did was plug the existing holes with 30 minute epoxy and let dry and then drilled new holes for the eyestrap centered between the old holes. I then fabricated two plates of 1/8"x1"x3-1/2" aluminum flat stock that I had on hand. One plate would go on the bottom to act as a backing plate and the other plate would sit on top of the deck as a base for the the new eyestrap. This top plate works in conjunction with the bottom backing plate and helps to distribute the pulling loads imposed on the connection by the main sheet to block.

I also put a layer of thin vinyl (that I found at Ace Hardware) between each aluminum plate and the deck (top & bottom) to act as a dampener (gasket)on the fiberglass. The vinyl also helps to alleviate any scratches that might be caused by the eyestrap attachment on the top of the deck when you tighten it down.

This made a very attractive and extremely durable mounting base for the new block. I doubt that there will be any problem with this connection.
 
Thank you Starfish :) .
I am taking your direction but I will be able to use two of the holes since I can use a Harken 071 eyestrap with my new Harken 019 block. This eyestrap has 1-1/16" hole centers which catch two of the three holes. I will use your aluminum plate suggestion below the deck and above the deck with a piece of bicycle inner tube rubber as my gasket to not scratch the deck too. I will dab a bit of west epoxy in hole #3 for cosmetics too .
 
It's good that you can use 2 of the exisiting holes from the previous rig. That is the best scenario for sure! In regards to the 3rd hole, it is good to fill it with epoxy as this will also help the structural integrity of the deck besides looking better too. A slow cure epoxy is generally the more favored to use in this type of situation as it will allow more time for it to make better penetration and adhesion to the surrounding deck material. The inner tube material will work great as a dampener. That was my first thought of what to use when I was dreaming up my fix but I accidentally ran across the vinyl in the store and picked up a 12" wide x 1" long piece......cost $.10.........

I'm not sure how much tension is actually being imposed on the deck when sailing, and I'm sure that this will vary in different winds, but I really don't think there should be any worries about the deck fatiguing and giving way. The deck is pretty thick and with the double plates you should be in very good shape.

Good luck with your new block!
 
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