cockpit drain assembly - correct direction

D

Dan G.

New Member
Hi,
What is the correct method to install a replacement brass cockpit drain assembly in a laser?

Q1. Does the "nut" and odd shaped washer go the cockpit side or to the self bailer side/underside of hull?

Q2. What is the proper position of the washer, wide side up, down or otherwise?

It would seem that if the "nut" was to the cockpit side it would be easier to tighten, as there is not much room for a wrench if at the underside of the hull.

I searched the forum but found conflicting answers to my Q1.

Any guidance form experience would be appreciated. Thanks, Dan
 
The nut and threads go out the underside of the hull and the flush part in the cockpit. The auto bailer covers up the nut and threads sticking out the underside.

You are correct there's no easy way to turn the nut, bust out the channel locks and get ready for 1/4 turns.
 
its a little tough to get it on, it might take 2 people

don't forget to silicon it up or it will leak
 
While I'd agree silicone or less aggressive 3M (4200) products are ideal for fittings on a laser the cockpit drain and the stainless steel plate for the base of the maststep are two places where I think 5200 or 4200 are a better choice.

Reason being while the boat is in the water and sailing those areas "live" in water and silicone won't last quite as well. I know it's not as an extreme example because Lasers get hauled out after each use but think about what you'd use for a through hull transducer for instruments on a keel boat. You wouldn't use silicone for that. Also the mast plate and to a lesser degree the cockpit drain are subject to stress, which can degrade silicone.

If you go the 5200 route please note that it takes a full week to cure properly, so if you use that for the cockpit drain wait 7 days to go sailing. If you can't wait that long 4200 fast cure is what you need.

Cheers.
 
glexpress said:
While I'd agree silicone or less aggressive 3M (4200) products are ideal for fittings on a laser the cockpit drain and the stainless steel plate for the base of the maststep are two places where I think 5200 or 4200 are a better choice.

Reason being while the boat is in the water and sailing those areas "live" in water and silicone won't last quite as well. I know it's not as an extreme example because Lasers get hauled out after each use but think about what you'd use for a through hull transducer for instruments on a keel boat. You wouldn't use silicone for that. Also the mast plate and to a lesser degree the cockpit drain are subject to stress, which can degrade silicone.

If you go the 5200 route please note that it takes a full week to cure properly, so if you use that for the cockpit drain wait 7 days to go sailing. If you can't wait that long 4200 fast cure is what you need.

Cheers.
Click to expand...

Folks,
Thanks for the input. The job went quite smoothly: the old black plastic piece came out with an easy tap and then a gentle pull with the pliers, cleaned up the opening, taped around both sides to protect from any excess sealant, inserted brass assembly part way, sealed both sides, placed washer (thicker side up, tighten nut using 1" inch socket, removed tape, all done in minutes.

Thanks again.
 
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