Clew tie down

LPW

New Member
Recently my clew tie down has developed the habit of not sliding down the boom. In light winds I have to lean out and push it along!
Anyone got any suggestions.

Thanks

p.s. no idea what make it is, but it has a metal ring, balck velcro, and whitish side which slides on the boom.
 
LPW said:
Recently my clew tie down has developed the habit of not sliding down the boom. In light winds I have to lean out and push it along!
Anyone got any suggestions.

Thanks

p.s. no idea what make it is, but it has a metal ring, balck velcro, and whitish side which slides on the boom.

Wash it, also clean the boom where it slides, and McLube it.

Merrily
 
Thanks.

The sides of the tie down are curled in in places. Could I iron it to flatten it out? Anything wrong with doing it?
 
That might end up melting the stitching or the strap material itself. A safer method you might want to try first is soaking the strap in a salt water solution, then wrap it around the boom and let it dry - when dry it will be stiff and curl free

FWIW, I haven't had this problem with the Spectra straps made by Greg Marriner - (user 48111 on this board) - see this thread http://laserforum.org/showthread.php...ght=Clew+strap for more info
 
ironing it might work. set the iron to a low setting and steam it back into shape? maybe....


new ones are pretty inexpensive as well, and while you should try to fix what you got, that's not a part you want slowing you down.

try the iron
 
I know the hot-shots tie the clew closer to the boom than is possible when using the Harken clew hook system but for club racing at least I have found this device very useful and troble free.

The problem of the clew tie down 'binding' on the boom as it angles from perpendicular can reduced with McLube or simmilar dry lubricant - but a simple solution (and cheap one) is to simply cut a plastic collar from a synthetic chamois holder (or other tube like container like a drink bottle) and thread the tie-down thru slits punched in it with a screwdriver at about 2, 6 and 10 O'clock (12 O'clock is the center top gap for the clew).

Provided this is 15-20 mm at the bottom (6 O'clock position) it can taper slightly towaeds the top. Need to use 2 wraps of hi strength/loe stretch line a bit finer than that supplied with the Harken Clew Hook - but the plastic 'collar' works better than teflon tubing simply because it does not let the tie-down 'bind' when pulled horizontally.

Cost is virtually nil, and it works better than trying to rig 'inhaul' shockcord, which clutters things up, and could stop the clew tie-down rotating on the boom, resulting in an unplanned 'unhook'.

As far as I can determine this should already be class legal - teflon tubing, roller beads and washers and velcro straps are. This is cheap, simple and works better in all windstrengths - and you only have to fiddle once - when you therad the thing up! The narrow plastic 'sleve' is no wider than the velcro straps, but stays flat and stops the tie-down from 'binding'.

possible patent pending (Ha)
 
glasky said:
a simple solution (and cheap one) is to simply cut a plastic collar from a synthetic chamois holder (or other tube like container like a drink bottle) and thread the tie-down thru slits punched in it with a screwdriver at about 2, 6 and 10 O'clock (12 O'clock is the center top gap for the clew).

Cost is virtually nil, and it works better than trying to rig 'inhaul' shockcord, which clutters things up, and could stop the clew tie-down rotating on the boom, resulting in an unplanned 'unhook'.

)

I've had that unplanned unhook. Got a picture? cause I'm having trouble visualizing.

M
 
Merrily (and Murphs)

No picture, but simply the same width as the LEGAL velcro tie-down but made of a srip of plastic (about 1mm thick) with the tie-down line threaded thru slits (at 90 degrees to the direction the tie-down runs) so it doesn't slide off the edges.

Can't see kow this illegal, if you can ad 'balls' or 'beads' who says how round they have to be????

trying to be helpful and save some money

not impressed with suggestion this is illegal - then again it took a class resolution to OK some tape on the forward edge of the centre case to eliminate excessive c.board wear to the leading edge of the foil.

Are you guys for real? The cost of what I'm suggesting is virtually zero-then again, maybe thats the problem
 
why would i give a rats about cost? im an 18 year old student, cheap is good for me

my objection is because in my interpretation of the rules, i believe a plastic collar is illegal, if you look at the link i posted, "wabbit" was doing a similar thing with pvc pipe.

read the ILCA class rules section 3. part (g)

the laser class rules say that a line or strap may be used

it also makes special provision to say that a clew tie down may be passed through simple balls or tube/tubes to reduce friction

the problem with the plastic is that is it not a line or strap neither is it a tube or balls, so it is illegal. im sure you're aware that in the laser rules if something is not specifically allowed, then it is prohibited
 
49208 said:
That might end up melting the stitching or the strap material itself. A safer method you might want to try first is soaking the strap in a salt water solution, then wrap it around the boom and let it dry - when dry it will be stiff and curl free

FWIW, I haven't had this problem with the Spectra straps made by Greg Marriner - (user 48111 on this board) - see this thread http://laserforum.org/showthread.php...ght=Clew+strap for more info

I have one of Greg Marriner's straps and I like it, although I am still struggling mightily with the question of how to use both a strap and a clew hook. It seams that with the strap holding down the clew, there is no upward pull on the hook, only forward pull, and the hook often falls out. Any suggestions?
 
Hi Chris,

Not sure if you saw this in another post, but this is how I use Greg Marriner's strap with my clew hook. With the strap sitting on top of the hook, the hook has no where to go. This is my standard setup and I've got 2+ years sailing like this in wind up to 30 and have never had the hook pop out. You can also throw a piece of duct tape between the free end of the hook and the ring end (where the block is attached) which closes off the hook. I used to do when I was using the thin rope clew tie down. http://www.laserforum.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=403&d=1132029554
 

Back
Top