My 68 has no cleat on the mast to tie off the halyard...what's the best way to add one. How about a light weight one attached with stailness hose clamps.
Best way is with pop rivets if you can find the right cleat. Hose clamps will rub on the
Sail. I did one drilling and tapping with machine screws and using 3m 5200 to bond it
to the mast.
Best way is with pop rivets if you can find the right cleat. Hose clamps will rub on the
Sail. I did one drilling and tapping with machine screws and using 3m 5200 to bond it
to the mast.
Many thanks...i like ur suggestions..might be able to drill proper holes in one of the light weight cleats provided what ever they are made of dosen't shatter
You can use a standard horn cleat (like the halyard cleat on the deck) but a nice cleat is an open ended aluminum clam cleat. With the open end, you can easily engage or disengage the halyard and it holds well.
Mast cleats should be standard issue on the Sunfish. It reduces the downforce on the base of the mast, reducing wear on the bottom of the mast hole, and the boat actually tacks easier as there is less friction. But is still essential that you run the loose end of the halyard though the deck eye and cleat it off on the deck to avoid losing the entire rig in a capsize.
Thanks..This is my project for today. This mast had no cleat..Boat is two years away from being an antique(68 model). Previous owner apparently ran the halyard to the deck eye and then to the cleat. It's a wonder the deck eye didn't pop..it's only held by two screws. Cleat on the mast will take alot of pressure of it.
Before installing, I wrapped some 80-grit sandpaper around a pipe to shape the mounting surface of the cleat so that it will sit securely on the mast. It works awesome. I was always nervous about the upward pull on the deck eye.
Thanks, never seen the pop rivet casing before. Seems to be the answer to
pop riveting into thin materials. Going to order a couple kits. The perfect
solution!
Before installing, I wrapped some 80-grit sandpaper around a pipe to shape the mounting surface of the cleat so that it will sit securely on the mast. It works awesome. I was always nervous about the upward pull on the deck eye.
Light: I agree that there is still pull on the deck, but it seems to be greatly reduced. In the original configuration, the halyard is driving the solid mast down into the hole and simultaneously pulling up on the deck fairlead. I still now have pull on the fairlead, but it somehow feels much softer since there is some "spring" in the tightness of the sail.
My top priority is not speed, it's longevity of the equipment. I am open to any suggestions. Won't be able to implement anything new however, the sunfish is packed away for the season.
Tying the halyard off to a cleat on the mast removes the compression load created by tying the halyard to a deck cleat.
If the deck cleat and fairlead are not being used to hold up the sail, the rig is now self supporting and not placing a compression load on the mast and deck.
The only reason at that point to tie the rig to the deck cleat is to keep it from falling out should the boat flip.
Enlarging the above photo, I see the halyard is FIRST secured to the new mast cleat.
Although new loads go to the fairlead--pulling upwards--those loads are adjustable, and can be greatly reduced. No special loading goes to the deck cleat.