Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
That's a quarter for scale reference. I'll take a look at the 610.West Systems "Six-10" is an epoxy-in-a-cartridge that is viscous enough to repair that hole with a minimum of sanding/preparation. (Hope that's a coin to show scale, and not a hole).
"Thixo" is another cartridge product with similar characteristics.
Just mix some up, drip into the hole, and sand fair with the hull when set.
Which fiberglass filler do you recommend?Use a tapered grinding stone to counter-sink the hole from the outside. Clean up the inside
and apply a strip of glass matt and cloth. When dry apply fiberglass filler to the hole on the
outside. Easier than when you next try to put the aluminum backing plate in. Due to excess
epoxy and junk on the inside you will probably have to cut the backing plate a little shorter.
Well worth it for the newer rudder system. It's a 100% improvement.
If you're going with a new style you will be installing a inspection port in the deck to mount the rudder bracket? Glassing over the hole from the inside using the inspection hole is usually standard.
So it depends on what is going on inside and how much work you plan to do? If the old wooden backer block for the latch plate inside the hull is in good shape you can leave it there and use it as a backer for the thickened epoxy, injected from the outside. In the photo below you can see the fiberglass strip that covers the wooden block and holds it in place. If the backer is mushy or gone then you need to cut or pry away the old fiberglass block cover and apply a strip of fiberglass cloth inside to act as a backer for the materials listed above. Make sure to buy the proper gudgeon backer, the one with the hump in it.
Would this kit be sufficient for the small repair? Jamestown DistributorsHi Flieger, I would use epoxy resin rather than Bondo which is a polyester resin. Epoxy is better for repair work.
I use MAS which uses 2:1 proportions making it easier to mix small amounts. I’ve also used System 3 and West and they are both fine, although West epoxy can get VERY hot when it kicks off. I believe Jamestown Distributor also sells epoxy under their own name, and that likely it is good. All of the epoxies just mentioned have been used to build boats that have sailed across oceans or boats that go 100+ around buoys, so the choice is yours.
Hope that helps.
Is this the one you mean? Rapid Set Marine-Tex® | Marine TexI would clean out as recommend. Clean with acetone and fill with marine tex. That is a non stress area. Marine tex sands nicely.