Boat Unloading

B

billmcinnis

Member
This applies to the trailer design thread, but I thought I's post it separately.

I have a great way to unload or load an upside down boat by your self. Three photos are attached. I made sort of a removable, swiveling boom out of black pipe that goes in the front of the trailer as shown in photo 2057. It goes through a U-bolt down to a block with a hole drilled in it and it’s easily removable.

To remove the boat I first position the dolly at a 30 or 40 degree angle to the trailer. I then take a short length of line with a loop in the end and tie it to the bow handle. I then lift the bow and put the loop over the horizontal piece of pipe as shown in photo 006. Then I lift the stern up and walk it around to the dolly and the boom swings outward. At that point it’s easy to flip the boat and set it on the dolly. I set the side of the boat on the dolly strap and then shift my grip and complete the flip. I then take the bow line off the boom and the job is done. I can accomplish the whole procedure in less than one minute.

Photo 005 shows the boat ready to go back on. You just set it on its side, complete the flip, and walk the stern around to the trailer. It’s hard to believe how easy it is.
 

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  • Boat 006.jpg
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  • IMG_2057.jpg
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Nice job on the swiveling boom. I like your trailer setup.

Question on your sheet cleats. I've been considering cleat options all winter, but still have not made a final decision. Have you been happy with your cleat position? If you had to install them on another boat, would you change the position, or type of cleat? They appear to be a cam cleat on riser, is that correct?

And one last question. What is the ring around the mast hole?

Thanks for sharing your photos and ideas,

Michfish
 
I'll chime in on this one. The ring you see is a port. The mast opening is in front of the splash rail and is hard to see in the photo.
As for the cleats. His are in apx the same position as mine. In line with the block and as far outboard as possible and still be able to through bolt them into the cockpit opening.
He used high risers. I prefer smaller risers, BUT if you use smaller ones you need the angled ones so the line from the block to the cam cleat lines up with the angle on the cleats.
I've tried both cam and clam cleats and prefer the cam ones.
 
The covers are the ones that Vanguard sold and I think they still have the same ones. They're fine, although the price might be a little high.

I'm satisfied with the cleats and block. The location is limited because, as Mike indicated, you should bolt them through the deck into the cockpit. The risers are a standard part matching whatever brand you use. I have Harken, as do most people. You could use a lower riser at an angle, but I haven't had any problems with the higher ones and the line is easy to grab. I hardly ever use them anyway, only if I need a rest in heavy air or need to make a sail adjustment.

On the trailer setup, the boat is supported at three hard points, the bow, the centerboard trunk, and the bulkhead at the back of the under-deck storage compartment. The center one is short because of the splash rail. Since these photos were taken I added a couple of small supports on the front corners of the boxes that support the deck outboard of the splash rail. I installed the bow support last and pushed up until I thought the load was about 40-45 pounds and then drilled the bolt holes. That way the load at each support is approximately equal.
 
Thanks guys for your insight on the cleats. I keep bouncing between a Harken 205 little swivel base, or two deck mounted fixed cleats as you have used.

As far as the mast ring / inspection post, dahhhhh. After your reply Mike I took another look at the photos. Yep, not sure when I last saw a mast hole BEHIND the splash rail. The mind does funny things at times.
 
Trust me you don't want the 205 swivel base. With the cleat right at the block in heavy air when you are hiked out you can't raise your arm high enough to release the mainsheet from the cleat and it's bath time.
It's fine if you never intend to go out in anything over 10 knots.
It was popular WAY BACK when, with the old rudder system as the rudder would kick out about the same wind speed as the cleat couldn't be released so folks really didn't notice the fault.
 
I will second mike4947 on the swivel cleat issue.

Many racers don't want (deck) cleats at all; I am one of them. They interfere with sliding around and can lead to capsizes in heavy wind. Save your money....
Just get a Harken (or Ronstan) block for the mainsheet. If you search the forum, you will find several threads regarding these blocks.
 
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