I'd highly recommend upgrading from the hook. Get a ratchet block and a cleat if you want that option (the cam cleat is not necessary, but can help it lighter winds to hold the mainsheet).
this is my preferred setup (shown on a Minifish...)
on a Sunfish, I mount the Harken 150 cleat right on the cockpit lip where the hook used to be (pic before I installed the stand-up spring):
a few other upgrades to consider:
some items can be found in the "For Sale" section of the Sunfish Forum, most everything can be found at normal Sunfish suppliers - Intensity Sails (usually cheaper prices) and APS both advertise on the Forum, and I've had good luck with both of them.
- mast cap
- horn cleat on the mast
- adjustable quick-release for the gooseneck
- tiller extension with a rubber universal (Ronstan Battlestick or similar)
- new mainsheet and halyard
- a race-cut sail from Intensity Sails
Y'know, an extended (2") nylon "rod coupler" (used to connect two threaded rods together), would make sense. Lightweight, easier to reach, and would act like a fuse, should the block get pulled by something that would damage that mounting location? I've got a few that have a 3/8" drive on one end, and should've used them!I've never tried the rubber washers, but it might not hurt to add them.
I just go to a local hardware store and pick up a couple stainless steel machine bolts to match the eyestrap holes. Under the deck, I use the bigger washers (might be called fender washers?) and a nylon locking nut.
Probably the same reason that you drive on a paticular side of the road or have your shirt buttons on the right.Is there a reason for having it on the port side when rigging
Webfoot: Do you happen to have a picture of this PVC mount?
Breeze bender: Is there a reason for having it on the port side?.
I just discovered I'll be needing three (3 !) mast caps. Ad is here:Thanks for the tip. The shaft of a 5/32 rivet is perfect size to hold in place. 1/8 is too small and will fall through.