where is the Xd block
Allen A134
No need to test - now that I took a closer look at the pictures, it's clearly not a ratchet block that the cleat is integrated with. So you need to switch that to a ratcheting one (without a cleat), and after that the choice is whether to mount sheet cleats on the side decks, or to have no cleats at all.The "integrated" sheet cleat is actually legal, but doesn't probably work that well. Needs to be tested.
Maybe this is good money after bad, but the boat was basically a donation to the local college sailing program. And it is a project for my son and I to work together on. At some point in time, I could find a newer better hull.
Haha, goes with the orange color... or vice versa!
Which cleats? They really detached from the deck? What's the plan?The cleats on the deck pulled free which didn't surprise me. I am already planning on that repair.
Hook? The cunningham (if that's what you mean with "downhaul") isn't supposed to have any hooks...The downhaul line to the hook was just by 2" to reach the hole on the tack. I can fix that. It is an intensity sail vs. an official laser sail.
...which means it will fill quite fast when it hits the water, leading to potentially serious righting problems. Install one.no mast cap on the top spar
I have a bolt thereAlmost lost the clevis ring on the clevis pin on the XD Vang, is there a better system than the stupid ring? It is hard to take off and put on.
Rig a clew strap or tie-down line! The clew can't be too close to the boom. And sit a little farther forwardVideo evidence:
The two deck cleats, they were just screwed into the deck with no backing. I am going to get them screwed where there is backing. Does anyone have a diagram of where the backing plates are on the deck? The original jam cleat was removed sometime in the past.Which cleats? They really detached from the deck? What's the plan?
yes cunningham, why would my have a hook on it? Am I confusing it with something else?Hook? The cunningham (if that's what you mean with "downhaul") isn't supposed to have any hooks...
I'd expect even the "I" brand sails to have the cunningham eye pretty close to the "right" place. The original sail of your boat may have had it closer to the foot, though.
Yeah, I didn't know it was missing those until my son was telling me as he sailed past me with reports. "Dad, another cleat broke off..... Dad, the tiller extension came off..... Dad, we need to order a mast cap...." I felt like every time he sailed by my kayak, there was something else that broke.......which means it will fill quite fast when it hits the water, leading to potentially serious righting problems. Install one.
My boat lives at my house and is trailered to the lake 30 minutes away so we have to remove it everytime. I will look into the quick release pin. I remember way back in the dark ages when I owned a Hobie I had a stainless steel clevis pin ring replacement that looked like a safety pin. unsure if that is a reasonable replacement.I have a bolt thereand I don't take the vang off except for travel and winter storage.
But there are nice "quick-pins" available if that's what you want: Sailboat Quick Release Pin
ThanksRig a clew strap or tie-down line! The clew can't be too close to the boom.
I will mention that to him. Where is the optimal body position?And sit a little farther forward
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Looking at the pictures again, you're probably talking about the cunningham and outhaul cleats. They should be bolted to a specific deck plate, which in turn is screwed to the centreline using the same holes where that boat originally had a Clamcleat (which is what you probably mean with "jam" cleat) for the cunningham.The two deck cleats, they were just screwed into the deck with no backing. I am going to get them screwed where there is backing. Does anyone have a diagram of where the backing plates are on the deck? The original jam cleat was removed sometime in the past.
I'm trying to make sense of your cunningham from the pictures... It a appears that whoever has fitted out that boat has only looked at some picture of a modern Laser without understanding what's really going on. First, the cunningham should use only one cleat on the deck. The other is for the outhaul. And while the outhaul may connect with a hook to the sail, the cunningham doesn't. You'll get a nice, working cunningham by keeping the orange-y line as the cleating line, and switching the hook to a piece of low-stretch line whose other (non-moving) end you tie around the mast below the gooseneck or vang tang, or to the tang itself or the vang cleating fitting (it's got a pin for exactly that). Tie the orange line likewise, somewhere low on the mast.yes cunningham, why would my have a hook on it? Am I confusing it with something else?
That's a topic for many threadsWhere is the optimal body position?
The two deck cleats, they were just screwed into the deck with no backing. I am going to get them screwed where there is backing. Does anyone have a diagram of where the backing plates are on the deck? The original jam cleat was removed sometime in the past.
yes cunningham, why would my have a hook on it? Am I confusing it with something else?
Yeah, I didn't know it was missing those until my son was telling me as he sailed past me with reports. "Dad, another cleat broke off..... Dad, the tiller extension came off..... Dad, we need to order a mast cap...." I felt like every time he sailed by my kayak, there was something else that broke....
My boat lives at my house and is trailered to the lake 30 minutes away so we have to remove it everytime. I will look into the quick release pin. I remember way back in the dark ages when I owned a Hobie I had a stainless steel clevis pin ring replacement that looked like a safety pin. unsure if that is a reasonable replacement.
Thanks
I will mention that to him. Where is the optimal body position?
I was impressed that the laser when we had wind was very responsive to accelerate up to speed compared to my sunfish. I do have to get used to tacking, the boom is so low it would catch the back of my pfd and tangle me in lines.
My 1978 Laser had no backing plates at all for deck mounting points and was generally built very lightly. I never had anything pull out though. There is a spine of thicker foam core running down the centerline of the deck on that boat that was sufficient to screw into. As long as you screw the hardware in near where the original Cunningham clam cleat was mounted, it should be fine. I would also recommend using 3M 4200 sealer to bed the mounting screws. Do not use silicone, it sucks and the seal doesn't last.
Well, sailed her today again. double cam cleat pulled out. So, next step is to put in an inspection port to epoxy in a backer block.Interesting that there are no backing boards where the clam cleat was mounted. Yeah 4200 is my go to sealant.
Try first 1) bigger screws. Are they the maximum size that fit through the cleat plate mounting holes? If yes, then 2) drill new, smaller holes on the deck. There's a 10 mm tolerance exactly for cases like this for the cleat fore-and-aft location. The measurement diagram shows the min and max distances of the cleat plate/Clamcleat from the transom (or the aft gunwale to be exact). If the screws still pull out, only then do you need to 3) install an inspection port. Even in that case, don't bother with any backer blocks; just use bolts with big washers.double cam cleat pulled out. So, next step is to put in an inspection port to epoxy in a backer block.
You might as well use a line. 3 or 4 mm low-stretch rope, twice around the boom and through the clew eye + a tight square knot. Has still won Worlds in recent years!Clew strap didn't work awesome. The velcro gave way, how to connect it stronger?
Good deal. We have been taking it out. He was going to coordinate with Spencer about how get the rigging down. But happy to meet up.Mash,
I'm active in the Laser fleet at AYC. If you are up to it, bring the boat to the club when we open up Wednesday nights again. We can go over the rigging in person. I'm also out there on most weekends recently. Next time you go, just ask anyone in the rigging area, they will be happy to answer any questions.
No one here will complain about your boat or sail being class legal for our local racing. No worries there, the boat is too old. So that is expected.
The clew straps are confusing when learning to properly attached them. It takes a few tries to commit it to memory. I like the harken boom sleeve with the hook, super easy for launch and retrieval on the boat ramps. I'm in the minority there, most locals use the strap but I can think of a few of us still using the sleeve. Homemade clew tie-downs are a breeze. I've tried everything on the clew tie down over the years, so I have extras. That's an important spot on the Laser. It needs to be secure, it needs to move along your boom...