My older boat is a 70 something. The hull ID was covered over so not readable . It has the old SS gudgeons and the mounting holes are exactly 1.5 inch on center from the transom. They are directly mounted with no spacers.
I measured all four walls of the tubing that runs the lengths of the boat and my old vernier calipers showed readings of .117 and .125 inches. So it varied. Not sure if my technique is bad or the tubing thickness in fact varies.
I have the blue APS bag. It is constructed well and robust. loading from the top is a little awkward. Protects the blades well and handles my 54" teller extension with no problem.
I have used the seitech fat wheels. The sidewall says 18 x 9.5. They could handle rough terrain but I no longer use them as I changed them out for the smaller size. See the for sale ads for a picture. The link still works.
I am the proud owner of hull #175246. This is my 5th Laser and I replaced the port grab rail. Under the rail I found the hull ID etched into the gel coat. I never saw this before on my other Lasers.
I didn't think the factory did this but maybe a previous owner did it for some reason, maybe to...
What you need are called cubitainers. They ensure positive floatation and can be purchased at Intensity Sails or APS. Both are sponsors of this website and are great to buy from.
I did both the repairs you mentioned. Grab rails were easily removed by removing the screws. Existing threaded holes were intact. This was a 1974 boat. If threads bad in holes, I found epoxy is the best fix. Sanded rails and used left over polyurethane. They look great.
Someone installed a...
I just removed a 1974 boom gooseneck plug. Tried the drill out method with much mangling. No good. Got the heat gun out. Drilled a small hole and inserted a self tapping screw. Heated it up good, aluminum and plastic. Plug became pliable and pulled right out with vise grips.
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