Recent content by alpe77

If there are no stringers under the floor to keep the water in the center, sure. I don't know what the layout of a C-14 looks like under the surface, but if the compartment below the deck is sealed from the sides, then... it would work. What other reason would there be to have a drain plug?

I've read about some dinghies having water ballast tanks, which can be filled, e.g. in heavy weather to provide some extra stability. That got me thinking... Could we flood the hull of a C14 (a little!) to achieve a similar effect? I mean, why put a drain plug at the stern? Obviously to drain...

Hmm... I assumed you did something like this (minus the O-ring): If so, how did you get the backing plate under the fiberglass? Did you cut a line and drop it through, suspended by string on both ends?

About those stern cleats... I'd love to know how you got access to the underside of the gunwale to attach the backing plates.

The forestay attaches to the chainplate using a D-shackle. I hate that thing. It's hard to screw in the clevis pin while holding the shackle in place, and tugging on the forestay to keep the mast from falling backwards. And I've dropped that damned pin enough times, that I'm thinking of...

Can't argue with that. I would buy a Baby Bob, but $350 seems a bit much. Maybe a Tightwad Bob https://sailingforums.com/threads/tightwad-bob-an-affordable-diy-mast-float.33546/ There's also the pool noodle, but I've read they are not effective.

Just turtled mine this past weekend in about 15 knots. Didn't sheet out when exiting on a new tack, and over it went. Started turtling immediately, and was completely upside down in about 10-15 seconds. No bid deal though, that's just how dinghies are. Just climb onto the hull, pull up the...

Two batteries are an interesting choice, I hadn't thought of that. But... at 24 lbs (for the lithium), the potential savings are negligible. Plus, it's more wiring, and you need an extra short-circuit breaker, and the whole thing takes more space. Lithium does not like water, but this one is...

There's only one pair of wires, going from the battery terminals to the outlet. When the motor is not plugged into it, the the outlet can be used to charge the battery. I just need to buy a second connector and spice it to the charger wires. The motor is an old 40lb Newport model that came with...

It looks like you'll need a retrofit kit to mount a newer boom onto an older mast. I would call Catalina Direct and confirm. https : // www . catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/capri-18/rigging/standing-rigging/spars-and-fittings/boom-retrofit-kito-14-cp-142-cp-18-c-22/?SearchResults=1 Edit: Just...

I wonder how well it would hold in the event of a capsize or turtle.

My boat came with a motor mount and trolling motor from the previous owner. It's super simple to put on the motor when needed, and put it away in the cuddy after leaving the dock. But I didn't like having the battery bouncing around the cockpit, so I mounted it inside the cuddy, and ran wires...

I ended up coating the back of the connector with marine silicone rubber.

I'm planning on putting the battery in the cuddy, and running a wire under the bench to the back of the cockpit, where it will end in a plug, like this one: [1]. But those screws don't look sturdy enough... The connector most likely going to have some freeplay, allowing moisture will get in...

From what I've read, the purpose of the traveller is to keep the main sail centered when close hauled. Okay, but: 1: The traveller on the C14 is not adjustable (unlike in something like a Laser), so what does it do then? 2: The traveller is connected to the main sheet, so even if it were...