Sunfish Pickin Pensacola

Discussion in 'Sunfish Talk' started by signal charlie, Jun 1, 2013.

  1. signal charlie

    signal charlie Active Member Staff Member

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    We interrupt our irregularly scheduled program for actual sailing of Sunfish sailboats....

    1953 Zip and 198? Madison
     

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  2. signal charlie

    signal charlie Active Member Staff Member

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    Danpal was worried about Merci, so we did a little work on her the last few days and here is an update. FYI we are shooting for an early Spring launch.
    ALL the backer blocks are gone, here are some shots of the underside of the deck where they were attached. I cut new blocks from cypress and glued them in place wi 3M 5200 marine adhesive sealant. I also put in a screw from the tp tp hold the in place while the sealant dries.
    Actually I did find a bridle eyestrap backer block, but cut 2 new ones anyway as it is pretty rotten.
    After it got dark I went to Ace to get some 10-32 x 3/4 pan head stainless screws for the coaming, and mixing cups.
     

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    Last edited: Nov 20, 2013
  3. signal charlie

    signal charlie Active Member Staff Member

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    Checked out the coaming rivnuts, one of them is spinning so I put some 5200 around it. Threw in a picture of the closed end of the rivnut. Then I stated playing in expanding foam. I ordered some from Fibreglast, it took about a week to ship. Poured part a and part b into separate cups, 4 oz each to start. mixed it in a separate cup, stirred til it started to rise then poured it on forward end of starboard bow block. It was a little too expanded so the Skipper took a paint stick and shoved some under the block, that worked okay but made it lumpy :)
    Then I taped in the port bow block and made 2 pours along the bottom, bumped it up to 150ml each part for those pours, Also poured around the center bow block top and bottom. Last I had to improvise to get foam on top of the port block as the deck would not raise high enough to get a cup in there. So I mixed up a batch, poured it into a ziploc, closed the. Ziploc, cut off a corner of the bag and used it like a cake decorator. A practice run would have helped, but it worked pretty good.
    Overall the foam is tricky, some batches ran a bit and some expanded too early. It is messy but it is holding the blocks great, both from expansion and being pretty sticky.
    Last, I quickly clamped the deck so the foam didn't push it out of alignment. And of course later I had to show the kids my foam art, they were impressed by the blob that ate the cup and split it.

     

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    Last edited: Nov 20, 2013
  4. signal charlie

    signal charlie Active Member Staff Member

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    Since the foam went so quick I decided to epoxy the deck and hull back together. First I sanded the inside of the deck and the hull. Then I cut thin strips of fiberglass cloth, saturated them withWest System epoxy and hardener, laid them on the lip of the hull and started clamping. Where I couldn't get cloth back in I used a syringe to inject epoxy into the crevice. It went pretty quick and I used paint sticks to spread out the clamp load. I got the clamps from a friend Howie Picard, he worked at Alcort from 1960-78 then did warranty work for AMF for another 10. Those clamps have seen a lot of foam replacements and rudder conversions and I am honored to have them!

    Clamping went so fast I had time to work on the stern. I had considered splitting the stern to replace the bridle eyestrap backer blocks, closing in the inspection hole and reinstalling the old style rudder backer blocks. But the Skipper brought me to my senses and said to put back on the hardware for a new style rudder. Remember someone had converted it and I had to chisel off an aluminum plate? Anyway, I eemoved the tiny inspection port, tunneled through the port and starboard foam and put in 2 cypress blocks for the eyestraps, held them in place with screws while they dry. Of course the keel latch plate backer block is still intact, they only one not needed! Next I need to put some fiberglass on the inside of the transom and get to work filling the multiple screw holes on the transom, and finish hull repairs...then sand, fair, paint, get a sail, find a rudder, daggerboard, install trim. Good news is that I have the mast and spars that went with the boat!
     

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  5. signal charlie

    signal charlie Active Member Staff Member

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    Took off the clamps and finished sanding the deck. Then flipped her and finished sanding the hull. All the old blue paint, 2 coats, is gone. Also sanded down the gouges in the gelcoat. Then replaced the keel section with fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin where I had blind patched earlier. Last job for today was to remove broken fiberglass on the chine crack, make a blind patch with 3 layers of fiberglass cloth, cardboard and wire, then install it with epoxy.
     

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  6. signal charlie

    signal charlie Active Member Staff Member

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    Bought used rudder, tiller and hiking stick, might go on one of our boats :) put them together with a cheek, need rudder pin and springs now.
    Sanded first layer of marine tex and sprayed with rustoleum to see how it is going to look. . Next I am going to try our 3M Marine filler on some areas, then Pettit EZFair, sand, primer, sand, then EZPoxy.

    Seasons Greetings!
    Kent and Audrey
     

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  7. tag

    tag my2fish

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    looking good!
     
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  8. signal charlie

    signal charlie Active Member Staff Member

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    Rolled and tipped a coat of Pettit EZ Primer so I could see where I need to fair an fill in some pinholes. It covered pretty good for just one coat, I'll try out some EZ Fair and then put on a second primer coat. I'm real happy with the keel patch under the cockpit and the chine patch.



     

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  9. signal charlie

    signal charlie Active Member Staff Member

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    Faired out the damaged areas and filled in some pinholes with Pettit EZ Fair. It mixed great and I like how it dispenses in equal amounts. You can also reseal it. Sanded it the next day, it comes off pretty easy compared to Marine Tex, and put on a second coat of Pettit EZ Prime. I had the can shaken at my Ace Hardware ( West Marine shaker was broken), last time I tried to stir it and made a mess. The second coat went on smooth in 68 degree weather. A little more fairing and I'll be ready to paint the hull!
    And along the way we won a Pettit Paint sweatshirt in their fb photo contest, I put up a picture of the Skipper sailing Zip and it got the most likes :)
     

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  10. O J

    O J New Member

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    Whew! any new progress since October's end? Pictures?
     
  11. signal charlie

    signal charlie Active Member Staff Member

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    Did some work in Dec, Waiting on paint and a few warmer days :)
     
  12. signal charlie

    signal charlie Active Member Staff Member

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    Started cleaning up a Barrington board that we bought on ebay, the tip was pretty chewed up, a little rot. Used a chisel rasp to get the big chunks smooth, then 80 grit to smooth it out. 120 grit is next to get the old varnish off.

    Checked out the length/width difference between the 1960s oval tip board and the Barrington. Is the Barrington shorter by design or has it been filed before?

    Multi tasking, also building a Penobscot 14, it will be the race committee boat: http://smallboatrestoration.blogspot.com/2013/12/penobscot-14-new-build-st-jacques.html
     

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  13. signal charlie

    signal charlie Active Member Staff Member

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    Float test! Dropped Merci in the water for an hour, Skipper paddled her around, no leaks! Still waiting for paint/warm temp/no rain, maybe this weekend. Also decided to fill transom drain hole, that got added long ago and has been superseded by an inspection port.

    K
     

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  14. signal charlie

    signal charlie Active Member Staff Member

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    Got our paint and put on the first hull coat today. Pettit Easypoxy Ocean Blue rolled with seafit 3/16 inch nap roller and tipped with 3 inch tapered trim brush. First time I used Pettit (it was a free sample) and it is my new favorite paint. It covered well, self leveled great and has a super gloss.

     

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    Last edited: Feb 4, 2014
  15. signal charlie

    signal charlie Active Member Staff Member

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    Sanded an eBay daggerboard and put on a base coat of Minwax Polycrylic. It didn't cover well enough, so I'll sand again and try a varnish, OR this daggerboard may be painted yellow to fit into my Army Air Corps Stearman colors theme, it could be the yellow vertical stabilizer and the rudder will have the red and white stripes.

    K
     

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    Last edited: Feb 4, 2014
  16. signal charlie

    signal charlie Active Member Staff Member

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    Sanded with 120 and put on second coat. It was 70 degrees out so I tried adding 10 percent thinner. That made the paint a bit runny but it rolled on well in a thin coat. Also used a 1/8 inch nap roller, found out I prefer the 3/16.

     

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  17. signal charlie

    signal charlie Active Member Staff Member

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    Gathering rudder parts, found a threaded backer plate.
    Removed old latch plate backer block from inside the keel.
    Removed cockpit trim and sanded off old paint.
    Sanded old varnish off if rudder and daggerboard, put on a base coat of epoxy.
     

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  18. signal charlie

    signal charlie Active Member Staff Member

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    Rolled and tipped base coat of Pettit Ocean Blue on the deck. I like to do this so I can see if I need to fair some more areas, then apply second/third coats. Tried a West Systems foam roller this time, it worked pretty well. Thinned 16 ozs of paint with about a cap of thinner, and it spread easily on a 70 degree day and the brush tipped off the bubbles well.
     

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  19. signal charlie

    signal charlie Active Member Staff Member

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    Now roll the boat outside to dry, forget to cover big inspection hole in stern, go out of town and Bingo! Flash Flood Watch :(

    The Skipper covered up the inspection port hole after a few hours of rain, but next I get to drain a little water. Good news is that the holes in the bottom of the keel are sealed and don't leak :)
     
  20. signal charlie

    signal charlie Active Member Staff Member

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    Faired some gelcoat cracks, sanded with 120 grit and put on a layer of Pettit Undercoater, tinted with Ocean Blue. Thinned the mixture a bit, then rolled and tipped it with a foam roller. Rolled and tipped second coat of Pettit Ocean Blue, used a 9 inch Sea Choice 3/16 inch nap roller for this coat, and like it a little better than the foam roller. One tip is to use the bigger roller, it lets you apply the paint fast so you can get it tipped before it gets tacky. I covered about an 18 inch wide section at a time, worked from bow to stern and stood on a chair so I could reach opposite side of the boat and save multiple trips from side to side.

    That is Merci's Air Corps sail rolled up and laying on the Drascombe, I like the way the blue and yellow contrast each other.
    The splashguard is missing a chunk on the port corner and has a crack on the starboard corner. I will rebuild and reinforce with fiberglass cloth, West System 105 epoxy and 205 Fast Hardener.

    Pensacola Boat Store (PBS) has great prices and an online store. I picked up paint, woven roving and hardener there today. Check them out at PBS
     

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