New (used) Laser owner! Questions about "watertightness"...

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PommeDeTerre

Drifting too far from the shore
Found a Laser for the freakishly low price of $300 locally (needed $300 worth of repairs to the mast tube, which I knew when I bought it). The repairs are done and I've already had it in the water. I LOVE this thing.

Full story here in the off-topic section of a guitar forum (I'm also a guitar/mandolin nut):

http://theunofficialmartinguitarfor...And-more-specifically-does-anyone-sail-Lasers

Anyway, when the repair was made, they put two inspection ports in the deck... so, Question #1: Should I use 5200 adhesive or similar around the base of the port covers? Or do you just let a little water get in? They're riveted in, but not sealed or gasketed in any way. (The screw-in lids have o-rings, but the base is just naked against the deck.)



Question #2: The cockpit drain is an ugly combination of a wine cork, old rubber grommet, and a bunch of 5200 adhesive. (This mess is both visible in the cockpit and underneath... don't have a pic of that, unfortunately.) I know this is a trouble spot. What would you recommend? Cleaning all the MacGyver'd crap out of there and installing one of those auto-bailer things? I've also seen/read about brass fittings, too. The Auto-bailer sounds like an interesting solution, and I've read a few threads here on this forum, but I've never seen any videos/photos of it being installed.

I don't really plan on racing at this point. It's just up at our cabin for a diversion... So, Question #2a: is there really any major functional difference between the $20 auto-bailer and the $80 auto-bailer? (The $20 one says it's not race legal.)

Thanks in advance, and looking forward to learning more here!
 
the only difference is which one is class legal, since you probably wont be doing big races go for the non class legal one
 
ang said:
the only difference is which one is class legal, since you probably wont be doing big races go for the non class legal one
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Yah, I figured... just wondering if there really are any actual differences, besides the manufacturer. And is it overkill? Or worth it?

Anyone know of a vid/photo essay showing the installation? (I don't think I've even found a picture of one in place at all.)
 
I think it's worth having the auto bailer. Otherwise you have to capsize to get the water out.

You may need more than just the bailer. If there is relative movement between the cockpit and the hull, you need to fix that. Then get one of the brass fittings. The bailer is outside, in the concave area of the hull, except for the actuation rod and rubber stopper. The bailer doesn't replace the brass fitting.
 
Rob Hair said:
I think it's worth having the auto bailer. Otherwise you have to capsize to get the water out.

You may need more than just the bailer. If there is relative movement between the cockpit and the hull, you need to fix that. Then get one of the brass fittings. The bailer is outside, in the concave area of the hull, except for the actuation rod and rubber stopper. The bailer doesn't replace the brass fitting.
Click to expand...
Awesome, thanks! These things I did not know!
 
The inspection ports should be sealed.
5200 will work, but it'll be a bear to remove the port if you ever have to.
Alternatives to 5200 are 4200/4000 or 3M Marine silicone, or BoatLife Life-Caulk.

If the cockpit drain is not leaking into the hull, I'd consider leaving it alone. If it is leaking, the first item to do is to replace it with the brass unit, and seal it well.
If you hate having any water in the cockpit while sailing around, AutoBailer is the only choice. However you can do a reasonable job without it, simply by sweeping your back foot along the cockpit floor to the rear wall, which will splash most of the water out.. You'll get all but a spongeful of water out this way.
 
excellent info, thanks.

and thanks for that install link. Not sure why I couldn't find it! Exactly what I was looking for.
 
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