Hi, just got a Super Porpoise

Discussion in 'Sunfish Talk' started by 1974SuperPorpoise, Aug 25, 2009.

  1. 1974SuperPorpoise

    1974SuperPorpoise New Member

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    I know what you mean about the sail, but I believe the Super Porpoise has 85 sq. ft. of sail versus the 75 sq. ft. of the Sunfish. I don't know if this difference would matter much.
     
  2. 1974SuperPorpoise

    1974SuperPorpoise New Member

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    Took my Super Porpoise out today for the first time. Wow, what fun. The wind was a little gusty and kept changing directions. It felt very much like Fall today. We'd be moving along pretty well and all of a sudden the the sail would go loose and a few times it would even want to switch to the other side. I don't have much "feel" for the boat yet so any time a gust came up i'd let the sail out some, but it felt like it really would move much quicker than I was letting it go. I have to get comfortable with the amount of heel it takes to get speed. Can't wait to do it again!
     
  3. tag

    tag my2fish

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    1974,
    congrats - that "new" boat is gorgeous. I have a Super Porpoise as well - not as nearly as nice, though :( The previous owner just kept the whole thing lying on the ground outside, but I also only paid $50 for it, so I can't complain too much. I later bought a Sunfish with a trailer, so I haven't used the Super Porpoise much lately, but have been keeping it stored in my garage for when my boys get old enough to sail solo.

    One thing to consider adding as an "upgrade" - from the pictures, and if your boat is similar to mine, there is currently no block and/or cleat for the mainsheet. It might be something you want to add to ease the load put on your hands holding the mainsheet the whole time.

    This post (http://www.sunfishforum.com/showthread.php?t=29738) has some good discussion on which models and setup options to consider. My biggest concern with your brand new boat would be how to install it, though... I'd hate to cut a hole for an inspection port just for installing the screws to attach it. Maybe someone with more experience can comment on a way to attach a cam cleat and block (or something similar) without having some kind of backing or a way to attach nuts to the back-side... maybe self-drilling screws? I'm just not sure they'd be adequate for the loading.

    I did email a sail shop - they quoted me $377 for a new Super Porpoise sail... not exactly the $150 you can pay for a (non-class legal) recreational Sunfish sail, so take care of that baby.

    Again, congrats on a sweet looking "new" boat.
     
  4. Noah.byt

    Noah.byt New Member

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    Hello, i just came across all of this and im finding great information about my super Porpoise. I am currently restoring it, i have it in 2 pieces, replacing the water logged foam in it. I can post pictures if anybody is interested to see what it looks like inside.
     
  5. oldfish

    oldfish Member

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    sweet boat!
     
  6. Super Porpoise BSA

    Super Porpoise BSA New Member

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    Greetings!

    Hope you're still around and your Porpoise is still "right side up"

    I came upon a somewhat weathered but servicable Super Porpoise that I am refurbishing for the Boy Scouts use at camp. If you have the owners manual or set up instructions from your "new" boat, I'd appreciate a copy - happy to pay any associated costs. And of course, lots of pictures :)
     
  7. Offroady

    Offroady New Member

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    Hello--new to the forum here and I have pretty good condition Super Porpose (red) that has a few dings that I can repair. My questions are: How to keep the clip from disconnecting from the rudder attachment point. I am thinking of putting a loop in the rope and running the rope through the metal ring thing on top of the rudder than clipping to the loop about a foot or so above the boat. I like the cable thing on the back of a Sun Fish, and I have seen pics of an SP with those on, but how can I install that on my boat?

    Second, how can I install the block thing near the center board to hold the rope? Do I have to install and inspection port to allow access?

    Third, my boat was stored in a barn for 30 years and the front 2.5 feet is faded. How to safely get rid of the fade or restore it. I tried some rubbing compound by hand and it worked for a little while but it came back. I never did get the nice shine like the rest of the boat.

    The sail is in pretty good shape but has a few small holes. How best to repair them?

    The rudder has a split in it. I sanded it and put several coats of spar varnish on it and the center board and they look pretty good now. How best to close the split and seal it?

    My wife is the better sailor on this boat--she grew up with a Sunfish and with this boat she can usually beat them. I can hold my own, but I am too old and fat to hop from side to side and have bad knees from downhill skiing and dirt biking so I don't got out in strong winds like she does--I just put on my jacket and lay in the bottom and cruise the lake when the wind is mellow--like 5-9 mph--and spill the wind when the boat starts leaning too much. I can pretty much go where I want to and get back, but some times not as fast as I would like!

    Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

    PS: I did ham radio Field Day last year from a 36' Catalina on Lake Michigan and had a blast!
     
  8. Offroady

    Offroady New Member

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    By the way--my boat looks exactly like the one pictured above, but not quite as nice. My rudder clip thing is woven into the rope. I live about 20 miles from where my boat was made! Too bad they are no longer in business!
     
  9. Alan S. Glos

    Alan S. Glos Active Member

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    Offroady,

    Do you need a spare Super Porpoise sail? I have one for sale, asking L1030521.JPG $35 + shipping, see photo. E-mail me at: aglos@colgate.edu if you are interested

    Alan Glos
     
  10. Light and Variable Winds

    Light and Variable Winds Well-Known Member

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    You may end up preferring the metal ring thing, as you have some control over getting the tiller to return to you.

    My Porpoise II didn't have "a space" to install one. I installed it on the top of the daggerboard, which wasn't awful.

    Check your other fittings for strength, and check your boat for excessive weight. You may want an inspection port or two (elsewhere on the boat) to dry it out. The removed disk can be the basis for a mounting point for a mainsheet block—and retain the same maroon color. (Pre-made fiberglass structures are available at specialized boating supply stores.

    Using West epoxy, you could bond a small unobtrusive fiberglass plate—braced to the forward cockpit bulkhead for strength. (You can make the plate yourself, using West epoxy and fiberglass cloth). It doesn't have to be very big, as two bolts (and one screw to the deck) would be enough to hold it—and you won't want to bump into it while sailing.

    That maroon (red) can't take the sun. A friend suggested Vaseline, which worked for about three months. I first removed a square decal (lower right) which had protected the finish for many years. You can see where I started the Vaseline treatment towards the top of the picture.

    View attachment 18098
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2015
  11. Light and Variable Winds

    Light and Variable Winds Well-Known Member

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    Well, I lost everything I'd written above :( but using "History", restored it! :D

    As far as "sailing reclined", there are "sail-tuning" ways to reduce the strength of your sail. It couldn't hurt to have a second set of spars (and gooseneck) with a Mini-Fish [smaller area] sail for those great days when you don't mind getting wet, but there's whitecaps all around.
     
  12. Light and Variable Winds

    Light and Variable Winds Well-Known Member

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    The photo below explains what I was describing earlier on my Porpoise II:

    GEDC0200.JPG

    The [removed] disc could be cut to any shape for your new block, but it should be rounded anywhere your body could contact or slide across it. Bond it to the deck, but leave room for at least small two bolts, and the one screw forward.
     
  13. Fred P

    Fred P Member

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    I feel that the sail is too high in that position and will cause too much heel and threat of capsize.
    You can try it but be alert to strong wind puffs. Good luck.

    FredP
     
  14. Rightbrainer

    Rightbrainer New Member

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    Could someone with an inspection port please show me how those cockpit drain tubes are set up inside the hull? I just got my hands on a Super Porpoise and the only apparent problem is that those drains are sitting a little high in the cockpit floor and the seal is broken. Previous owner gobbed some calk around them and went sailing, but I'd like to fix the problem if I can. The boat has been in the garage for about 20 years, so it's probably pretty dry. I haven't weighed it. Thanks, Marty
     
  15. Light and Variable Winds

    Light and Variable Winds Well-Known Member

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    Hi!

    Writing here as former-member Porpoise2 (from page 1) those cockpit drains have always been a mystery to me. :confused:

    After removing the three screws that hold the scoop to the hull, peer into the drain from the bottom of the hull, and see if this sketch—drawn from memory—agrees with what you see:

    Picasa 3 8132013 24221 AM-001.jpg

    It appeared to me that an open-topped cylinder of 3" black PVC caught water from the cockpit, then drained via the bottom scoop. (Clever, if it really worked as intended). :cool:
     
  16. Rightbrainer

    Rightbrainer New Member

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    OK, I pulled the 'scoops' off the bottom. They look like Perko clam shell ventilators. No fancy reservoirs for me. They are each just covering the end of a flared tube that runs directly from the aft corners of the cockpit straight down and through the hull. It seems that if I can free both ends, I should be able to draw them down through the bottom, cut the extra length off if necessary, seal the bejeepers out of them and be done. Probably somebody who was a little too heavy stood in the cockpit when the boat was on land and sunk the cockpit a quarter inch closer to the hull.

    By the way, regarding the halyard and boom clamp locations, I measured the spars and the SP spars are only a couple of percent longer than Sunfish spars. Add 3 or 4 percent to the Sunfish recommendations and take it from there. I know it's more complicated than that based on the relative locations of the mast and centerboard, etc. but you'll be within an acceptable range to start. Many of the pictures that I have seen show the spars really high on the mast, which would make the boat very tender and probably give you hellacious weather helm with so little sail in front of the mast to push the nose down.
     
  17. Rightbrainer

    Rightbrainer New Member

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    Update on those cockpit drains. I now know why they are in two pieces, sleeved together. There is a lot of flex in the cockpit floor and the movement makes it impossible for the one-piece rigid tubes in my boat to remain sealed at both ends. I'm either going to open it up, cut out the middle of the rigid tubes and put flexible tubing between the cockpit ends and the hull ends, or replicate the tubes-into-the-cups setup, or just live with it and drain the water after every sail. (Most likely).
     

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