Can you post some pictures?The cockpit has the jagged top like the age forum mentions.
Good bet it's a '72..., There may be a handful of transitional exceptions, but for the most part..., '71 still had the old style rudder.I'm not 100% sure about the year..., It has the storage compartment and modern rudder attachment.
I think that's a tad exaggerated. . . as your boat is evidence to.The Sunfish age forum seems to suggest that this boat shouldn't still float but after 36 years it still does.
Hmmm.... published weight for that year is 139#. Give or take 10# for normal variation in hand lay-up techniques of that period, you're right in there.The boat weighs 140 lbs so I guess that makes it a little heavy. Is that water weight or 10 lbs of fiberglass patching?
Are those screw holes along the front edge at the corners? They could be from having cleats mounted on deck (see picture). That gray sealant looks like the factory stuff of the day.So I think the cockpit of this boat must have come unglued but was then fixed because as you can see in the photos there are two screw holes which were probably used to secure the cockpit to the deck so it could be reattached with that fat bead of caulk/glue. After which the screws were removed.
Afloat it's not as serious a hazard, but on the trailer, upwards of five yr olds can break the cockpit (or deck) of any year Sunfish even a 2009.I will probably have little luck in keeping my kids from jumping up and down in the cockpit.
If you see a tub seated like the one pictured then your tub is situated right against the bottom as normal.So I was thinking of doing two things. First, as was suggested, I can put in an inspection port and fill the gap under the cockpit with expanding foam. ( The hull is pretty stiff )
If the caulk is solid and watertight, you may be turning a good situation into just what you are trying to avoid.Second, remove the extra caulk/glue from the joint between the cockpit and the deck and fiberglass over the joint. It won't be visible so my lack of fiber-glassing abilities will be concealed.
Hmmm.... published weight for that year is 139#. Give or take 10# for normal variation in hand lay-up techniques of that period, you're right in there.
As I recall, your boat's tub had broken free of its bottom attachment points.Wayne has the right idea, leave the caulk in place since it seems to be working. If the hull does not flex, the tub is sitting on the bottom as Wayne said or the glue disks or whatever they used. Whatever the tub is sitting on is what is keeping the tub from pulling away.
A surrounding bead, in that case, might work since the bottom would already have support.If the tub is sitting on glue disks and there is a gap you can put in some reinforcement. You have to be careful with expanding foam because it expands with some force and needs a area to squidge out of. It might not be a good idea with your flange-less tub to have it pressing upward against the deck. Wedging foam strips under the tub might be a better idea.
Where is that information published?
Are those screw holes along the front edge at the corners? They could be from having cleats mounted on deck (see picture). That gray sealant looks like the factory stuff of the day.
Is that photo of the front lip of the cockpit and just out of view is the hook?They are screw holes, you can see the cuts the threads made in the holes. It looks like they were driven in at an angle through the deck and into the side of the cockpit. The only thing currently attached to the deck is the hook.
Is that photo of the front lip of the cockpit and just out of view is the hook?
Yes, the hole in the forward wall of the cockpit tub is a vent so the boat doesn't over expand while sitting in the sun.That's right. The other hole is supposed to be there right?