Appreciate that reminder! I’m thinking of using a paint stripper to get a quick idea of if there any major problems. The family that will sail her really hopes it can be stained and varnished up. But a pretty boat that leaks or has other problems will not hold a candle to a tight boat with a spectacular paint job.The wood could be anything, but oak is unlikely. I like wood, but plywood is likely Western Hemlock, whose grain doesn't do anything for me.
You can sand-away, but nearing the end of your sanding, uncover a stain or repair that needs additional carpentry work to make it perfect. (Delaying delivery).
Those are the negatives. If you spend the same amount of time on the paint job, it can be made to turn out spectacular.
GOSH! You have made the wooden part of your boat GORGEOUS!!!Use the West System rollers too, but I cut them in half.
Is it possible to veneer on top of the plywood? My two sheets don’t really match (as far as I can tell, and I know in a few spots, I did gouge through the top layer :-(. I’m also thinking about varnishing just the really pretty sides and bottom, them leaving a border on the deck where the pretty brass screws are all shiny as clear wood, but paint the center deck? That way I could fair the deck flat and my sins with a radial sander could be forever hidden…See if you want to thank me after you're done sanding.
That good plywood is pretty robust but take your time and don't go too deep or you'll go through the top veneer, and that does not look good. You can expect to find a scarf line somewhere in the middle of the boat where two sheets of plywood were connected, so you might start in the middle and sand around until you find that to make sure there will not be a color difference in the 2 different sheets of ply. On ours it was right behind the daggerboard trunk.
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How good are you with cutting wood? I might suggest to add a rub rail, it helps protect the top seam and gives that little extra edge to grab onto after a capsize, also lifting the boat. Our "Sailfish 14 Deluxe" actually came with a rub rail and toe rail, very handy. Also a Dry Dek coaming and fancy bow handle. What type bow handle is on your boat?
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FMI: http://smallboatrestoration.blogspot.com/p/alcort-super-sailfish-zsa-zsa.html
Thanks for the suggestion! I have an airbrush mini blaster that I bought online for etching glass. That and my harbor freight pancake compressor really will make them shine!I'd be tempted to sandblast the screws on the sides. Brass or bronze--and varnished--they'd then sparkle whereas wood filler won't.
"Spot" sandblasters are inexpensive, and an air compressor can be borrowed--or purchased new--for about $50. Many other uses for an air compressor too. I use one to keep my cheap tires inflated on my many Harbor Freight devices and to refresh layers of my cloisonné "works", as I make them.
See if you want to thank me after you're done sanding.
Thank you!!! I tried stripping a section of her deck today, and I could t get it to budge! Our beautiful 75 degree weather dropped to the 40’s, so hoping that by morning I’ll see some more of the actual plywood. Right now I’m planning to do some custom painting on her over any patched or other problematic areas. The new family that is buying her has some great ideas and I’m having so much fun doing this for them. Really appreciate hearing about what resin/hardener you used too.
Your airbrush mini blaster sounds better than a "spot" sandblaster--although a "spot" sandblaster can be focused for small surfaces using the provided attachments. You could also make a postcard-sized "template" using a ¼-inch drill bit and a piece of aluminum.Thanks for the suggestion! I have an airbrush mini blaster that I bought online for etching glass. That and my harbor freight pancake compressor really will make them shine!