Try removing all but the main leaf spring on each side of the axle (ie - suspension). When you stand on the empty trailer it should sink down 4" to 6". This will give the more cushion to the hull when trailering as a standard jet ski trailer with a suspension rated for 600lbs would be way too stiff for a 130lb Sunfish.
I don't think you are correct when you refer to the boat's construction as "epoxy". These boats are made of glass fiber reinforced polyester. The cockpit is bedded in pads of polyester resin. Ultimately, because of the double bottom and internal cockpit walls that area of the hull has the greatest reinforcement. Perhaps your hull experienced some sort of dramatic trauma causing the cockpit tub to catastrophically break free, leaving jagged edges at the broken bonds resembling "spikes".The weakest part of my boat hull was under the cockpit, there was nothing between the bottom of the hull and cockpit. This caused the hull to oil-can and epoxy resin spikes on the bottom of the cockpit to punch through the hull from the inside.
I don't think you are correct when you refer to the boat's construction as "epoxy". These boats are made of glass fiber reinforced polyester. The cockpit is bedded in pads of polyester resin. Ultimately, because of the double bottom and internal cockpit walls that area of the hull has the greatest reinforcement. Perhaps your hull experienced some sort of dramatic trauma causing the cockpit tub to catastrophically break free, leaving jagged edges at the broken bonds resembling "spikes".
I recommend you transport your boat upside down supported by the deck.
I've heard the recommendation to carry the boat upside down before, why is this better for the boat than bunks supporting the hull right side up near the chines?
Any advice on how to carry spars/mast when trailering a SF upside down? I've looked at buying an 8' PVC tube to carry beneath the boat attached to the trailer frame but it would have cost almost $150 to buy enough 8" PVC to carry the spars.
Any cheaper alternative methods for carrying them beneath the boat?
$150 would be money well spent. Just think. You can seal the sails up in there and know that they will stay clean and dry.
4. I have not figured out the spar storage issue. It seems that more often than not I have to put my sails away wet, until I could get home to dry them out. I would not want them closed in a pvc pipe with no ventalation. Maybe someone has a half pipe idea. It seems most people use some sort of breathable spar bag and firmly attach that to the trailor.
Rollers..., YIKESI'm new to this. Are we not supposed to have the hull resting on or touching the rubber rollers? Do the rollers damage the hull while in transit?
The trailer does have carpeted bunks as well, but I'm not sure if 50% of the hull is being supported. I'll have to measure it. I put together a message yesterday with photos, but after I spent 43 minutes completing it, I got a message stating that the moderator needed to approve my post. I'm still waiting and we really need to know if we are doing damage to our new Sunfish by using this trailer.Rollers..., YIKES
Rollers tend to focus the weight of the boat at concentrated spots..., the apex of each roller's curve.
Better to have the weight distributed over a wider area by using "bunks", long padded and carpeted boards that extend along about 50% of the boat's length.
The other good support system is "cradles". These run perpendicular to the boat and are formed to fit its contour, again padded and carpeted.