I have a serious self-bailer problem and would love to hear from anyone who has past experience. My Laser is from the early 80s, and I’ve owned it 2 years. The problem is that the bailer hole in the cockpit is not quite concentric with the hole in the hull. (I removed the autobailer assembly and the remains of the cockpit bushing.) Water leaks into the hull unless I seal it from the outside (I use waterproof electrical tape), meaning I can’t use an automatic bailer. I learned from the drLaser website that this condition probably means a separation of the cockpit/deck from the hull. It is strongly recommended NOT to replace the cockpit bushing and automatic bailer under these circumstances (unless first repaired). The cockpit/deck and hull are probably partially disconnected inside, and repair means installing an inspection port (easy), and working backwards under the cockpit with bondo and fiberglass (hard!). The description of the fix actually suggests using a mirror and a small jack! My question: should I just live without a self-bailer (and if so, what about water in the cockpit), or should I bite the bullet and do a repair requiring MANY hours of unpleasant labor? I do not race.
Self-bailer woes
- Thread starter Gaboury
- Start date
computeroman2
Member
For the longevity of the boat, i would do the repair, just because when you sell it, you won't have to say there's a hole in the boat. Wether you're rec-sailing or racing, you don't really need that thing...it only actually works when you're planing, in which case a gallon isn't going to make that much difference. It usually just lets water in anyway. I'd seal it with sliicone(window sealer) or something for now, wether you do the repair or not. You can just slap your foot against the back of the cockpit, or capsize the boat, and all the water will run out.
Also, that cockpit can only hold 5 gallons or so of water.
Also, that cockpit can only hold 5 gallons or so of water.
Hi,
Your boat doesn't sound too bad. I assume you had a plastic thru hull fitting (bushing).
The cockpit is supported full length by a center beam. This stops near the back, where the bailer indentation swells up towards the deck. Just having a bit of misalignment, doesn't actually mean there is no connection between the cockpit and the hull.
For a quick and easy repair, I'd try installing a new Brass thru hull fitting, with silicone, etc. This alone may stop the leak into the hull. Since you didn't mentioned this, I'm assuming this wasn't done yet.
If you can actually see some motion between the hull and cockpit, then you really should glass it together, then reinstall the brass thru hull. Whether you use a bailer or not is not as important as keeping water out of the hull.
Here is a pic of what it looks like in there, in a wet old boat. The worst case, if you find motion between the cockpit/hull, you could glass across the gap to stop this motion. Cutting the inspection port, and glassing this would be 2 hours max after assembling the materials.
That's the worst case, which I doubt you have. Besides, 2 hours of putzing with the boat hardly qualifies as "work". lol
Again, a well bedded brass thru hull fitting is a necessity, and very likely to be a quick fix.
Al Russell 182797
Your boat doesn't sound too bad. I assume you had a plastic thru hull fitting (bushing).
The cockpit is supported full length by a center beam. This stops near the back, where the bailer indentation swells up towards the deck. Just having a bit of misalignment, doesn't actually mean there is no connection between the cockpit and the hull.
For a quick and easy repair, I'd try installing a new Brass thru hull fitting, with silicone, etc. This alone may stop the leak into the hull. Since you didn't mentioned this, I'm assuming this wasn't done yet.
If you can actually see some motion between the hull and cockpit, then you really should glass it together, then reinstall the brass thru hull. Whether you use a bailer or not is not as important as keeping water out of the hull.
Here is a pic of what it looks like in there, in a wet old boat. The worst case, if you find motion between the cockpit/hull, you could glass across the gap to stop this motion. Cutting the inspection port, and glassing this would be 2 hours max after assembling the materials.
That's the worst case, which I doubt you have. Besides, 2 hours of putzing with the boat hardly qualifies as "work". lol
Again, a well bedded brass thru hull fitting is a necessity, and very likely to be a quick fix.
Al Russell 182797
Attachments
It's true that I haven't confirmed that the cockpit and hull are disconnected. I have no other evidence, except that I can push the two holes into alignment. (I can't see much through the drain hole.) The article I found (attachment) indicates it is a bad idea to put in a brass bushing if cockpit and hull are disconnected, since that part of the boat is not designed to take much stress, and both holes may enlarge. You have a good point, though, and I may just install an inspection port. Then I can better dignose the problem, and will have finished stage 1 of the repair, if needed. Thanks.
Hi again,
Great article, I don't remember seeing that one. The author is a Pro, so I'd never dispute his claim that this/his is the right way. However, I don't believe he'd endorse your conclusion, to do nothing but tape it up either.
Old wet hulls need a port, or two. It's as simple as that. Water is going to rot things, soak into the wood, glass, then freeze, expand etc. if you live up North.
I'd say cut some holes, take pictures to analyse the mast step (search "step"). Dry it whatever way til it weighs 135 or so. Then decide if it's worth the 19 (US) bucks for a brass thru hull, or some WEST work.
Who knows, you may even decide putzing with boats hardly resembles real "work" ? lol
Al Russell 182797
Great article, I don't remember seeing that one. The author is a Pro, so I'd never dispute his claim that this/his is the right way. However, I don't believe he'd endorse your conclusion, to do nothing but tape it up either.
Old wet hulls need a port, or two. It's as simple as that. Water is going to rot things, soak into the wood, glass, then freeze, expand etc. if you live up North.
I'd say cut some holes, take pictures to analyse the mast step (search "step"). Dry it whatever way til it weighs 135 or so. Then decide if it's worth the 19 (US) bucks for a brass thru hull, or some WEST work.
Who knows, you may even decide putzing with boats hardly resembles real "work" ? lol
Al Russell 182797