...since we're at it. Any one knows what is the "thickness" of the deck stripe that runs through the middle of the SF (front to back) of later models? I am planning in painting one and want to get it right.
Some'm like so:
http://www.inland-sailing.com/New_Boats/Vanguard/images/sunfish_12.jpg
I would like to also hear an answer since I'm about to paint my boat with Interlux Topside paint. Also, how many quarts of paint have you used on your boat? Thanks.
I would think paint over 320 grit swirls would come out without seeing the underlying effects of sanding. Usually roll & tip comes out with faint ripples hardly noticible even a few feet away. What sort of roughness are you getting? Can you post a picture?I am using Interlux Brightside and have wet-sanded (320 grit) in between coats.
I am painting my top side fire red and the bottom/sides white. The cab area will also probably be white.
Cool, then I guess you will end up getting a quart of each which I think will be more than enough for several coats.
I would think paint over 320 grit swirls would come out without seeing the underlying effects of sanding. Usually roll & tip comes out with faint ripples hardly noticible even a few feet away. What sort of roughness are you getting? Can you post a picture?
If it’s just a haze you can buff with a polishing compound ... not to be confused with heavier grades of rubbing compound.
Are you sure each coat is completely "dry" ... sometimes it can take several days for each coat depending on temperature and humidity.
Did you get the same problem on your practice board when you were testing how light or thick a coat to apply?
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If you look around, 3M and Maguires both have really fine grit polishing compounds ... they list the grit level on the label ..., like 800 grit and 1000 grit, for example.Thanks for clearing the difference between polishing and rubbing compounds. I am used to the rubbing but never have touched the polish compound
Practice board...Man you are funny! Where do you get this stuff?
NEVER use your boat for practice ... help someone else fix theirs first, then bring the learning home.
Well, if you've done body work you probably already know it's laughable right up to the day you slide down the back side of the learning curve..., get a bad batch of paint, or miss a crucial step in the instructions. Then an extra day spent re-sanding and double the expense becomes sobering. But, I'm probably the only one who'd ever do that.I guess I skipped that part of the lesson.....I don't really have anything to practice on either. But I've done body work before, so I'll try to use that to help me.
I've mostly used the No.7 or Maguires. The important thing is the grade. Most No.7 you find is medium and heavy rubbing compound ... and that's not a finishing polish. Check their web site and see how they distinguish grades. There must be a dozen polish manufacturers too, from Turtle Wax to DuPont.Any big difference between the No.7 polishing compound and the 3M fancy-name stuff you posted other than the 20 dollar difference?
Even when a polish is rated the same as a wet sandpaper the suspension of particles in the compound seems to leave a more swirl pattern free polishing job.Another question. If some of these polishing compounds are graded by grit numbers, would it be the same as using the equivalent in paper? Lets say, wet-sand with a 1000 grit sand-paper? Which number should I use for this?
It may need to cure for a couple of months before it would get any further polishing (SWAG).Update:
Called Interlux this morning and the young fella' on the other side of the line told me that once the final coat is applied you are pretty much done. I should not sand, buff, polish or any of that. Now I will try to follow their advise, but that just seems wrong to me .