rigging guide

monkey_feet

monkey_feet

Arlington, TX
Hello,

I just bought an old laser to race in my club's Wednesday night series, and I would like to see if anyone has the rigging guide where you can add the purchase to the vang, cunningham and outhaul.

I remember running across a pdf somewhere, but have been unsuccessful in finding it again.

Also, what year did they start putting the new upgrade on standard?

Thanks in advance...
 
There's a link to rigging and tuning on Vanguard's site, as well as West Coast Saling's site, one of this site's sponsor's.
 
monkey_feet said:
Hello,

I just bought an old laser to race in my club's Wednesday night series, and I would like to see if anyone has the rigging guide where you can add the purchase to the vang, cunningham and outhaul.

I remember running across a pdf somewhere, but have been unsuccessful in finding it again.

Also, what year did they start putting the new upgrade on standard?

Thanks in advance...
Click to expand...


To turn an "old style" vang into a 15-1 purchase, make a cascade system as follows. Sorry to give you the 1000 words instead of the picture, but I can't draw.

Buy two single cheek micro-blocks, like Harken 433 or 233

one double micro block with becket (e.g. Harken 227)

Take the lower fiddle of the existing vang, and add the two cheek blocks, one on either side. Attach them by replacing the existing cotter pin with a bolt and nut.

Primary control line (very skinny Spectra or something) is 3:1. Reeve it just like the existing vang line, except do not pass it through the larger (lower) block of the lower fiddle and out through the jam cleat. Instead, tie it to the bail of the new double block.

Secondary control line is 5:1. (It needs to be something you can hold and cleat) -- tie it to the becket of the new double block, then down to one of the new cheek blocks,
up to one block of the new double block, down to the other new cheek block, up to the other block of the new double block, down to the lower block of the old lower fiddle, out through the jam cleat.

You'll need to adjust the lengths carefully, because the range of travel isn't huge. With the vang all the way extended (new double block pulled right up to the old top block), you should just barely be able to get the vang key in without pulling the boom down.
 
Thanks everyone for the help. I appreciate it!

I'm hoping to make it out to some regattas soon. I'm sure I'll get my butt kicked, but you hav to start somewhere!:D

One more humble request. Any suggestions on some tuning / boat handling books, etc.

I'm a scow guy. These boats are completely different! They don't like to heel! And I'm one of two at our club racing Lasers.

JH
 
play with your cunningham until the sail is completely flat..but dont make it too loose. vang you will want tight for upwind, to give mast bend. outhual you will want fairly loose to put some curve or extra bag in the sail. The looser the outhual the harder it will be to keep flat. For upwind you will want to be at very front of cockpit, for brodd reach if you can plain out go to mid of cockpit. And thats abit all i can tell you.
 
monkey_feet said:
Thanks everyone for the help. I appreciate it!

I'm hoping to make it out to some regattas soon. I'm sure I'll get my butt kicked, but you hav to start somewhere!:D

One more humble request. Any suggestions on some tuning / boat handling books, etc.

I'm a scow guy. These boats are completely different! They don't like to heel! And I'm one of two at our club racing Lasers.

JH
Click to expand...

The Colmplete Introduction to Laser Racing by Ben Tan is good. Very comprehensive
The Laser campaign manual by Ben Ainsle is good - short and to the point. It has a companion CD with some decent video how to on boat handling.
The Boat Whisperer DVD's by Steve Cockerill are very good on boat handling
I'm told the book by Dick Tillman is also good.
 
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