So your arguement is that it's more desirable to have the blade fail than the cheeks?
No. I definitely never said or intended to imply that it is more desirable to have the rudder blade fail. I simply wanted to point out that no solution is bullet proof
Thanks for that very useful link. On my rudder I can see the somewhat corroded rod installed in hole drilled above and parallel the upper gudgeon . The drill and rod dimension, rod type and installation of that is what I'm trying to determine- or guess at.https://www.sunfishclass.org/documents/SUN2015CR171214-18151.pdf page 7 has the original rudder dimensions.
Received as a gift, my Nicro Marine tiller extension provides a bushing with a recessed quick-release locking pin.Hint- use a brass bushing for the tiller bolt holes. The lack of such is what causes most
rudders to split. I use one for the tiller, one for the grudgeon and one on the tiller extension
bolt. I'm pretty sure I'll never have a remote chance of wearing them out.
Get info - thanks I will follow your advice.Sounds like something someone installed post factory. Looking at my old style rudder the only
holes are two for the grudgeon and one hole for the tiller. That's all you need.
If you have a clean rudder split any wood working glue like Tite-Bond works fine. Epoxy
also works. The difference is epoxy needs a gap and white glue does not. When you clamp
the parts together do not over tighten so that you don't squeeze all to white glue out. If
that parts don't match up well do to a bad break, try epoxy and micro-balloons. I've filled
large gaps/splits in my oars with this method
Hint- use a brass bushing for the tiller bolt holes. The lack of such is what causes most
rudders to split. I use one for the tiller, one for the grudgeon and one on the tiller extension
bolt. I'm pretty sure I'll never have a remote chance of wearing them out.