Thanks so much. Exactly what I hoped to learn. Your daggerboard looks gorgeous!If the daggerboard finish is otherwise in good shape I’d sand down the rough or crunched end with an 80 grit, shaping as necessary, then a mid grade and finishing (sanding the whole board) down to a 220 grit. Wipe with a tack cloth.
I recently refinished a couple of boards and I used an old bank card to fill the end and spread thickened epoxy (Flexpoxy) on the bottom 3” or so. The epoxy is hard and will help protect that vulnerable area. The boards were then varnished with 3 coats of Helmsman spar polyurethane (at your local hardware store). I used 2” foam brushes to apply, with a light sanding of 220 between coats. Good fall/winter maintenance project!
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One more question. My daggerboard is curved. Yours is straight. My boat is four years of. Did they change the daggerboard design for newer boats?Thanks so much. Exactly what I hoped to learn. Your daggerboard looks gorgeous!
Um I don’t know what “class legal” means. Perhaps for racing? I don’t race. I’m just happy to stay in the boat and dither about in the bay.That board apparently has the same profile as the fibreglass and foam ones. Is it class legal?
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Yes. In the Sunfish class, the foils have to be "builder supplied" (which in practice means dealer supplied). But according to the builder's promo video (at 0:24), both wood and fibreglass are options. As the actual class rules don't mention the material (only the shape), I assume that you can race with either. Class activists should know moreUm I don’t know what “class legal” means. Perhaps for racing?