sailor327 said:If you plan on racing the wooden blades aren't legal but it shouldn't matter in a club race.
pez said:It's odd... it looks to me like a mmahhogany, but one spot on my daggerboard has worm to bare and has the characteristic gray color of teak....
sailor327 said:If you plan on racing the wooden blades aren't legal but it shouldn't matter in a club race.
pez said:It's odd...
I'm going to get my daggerboard and rudder done in the off season this year... just know it will take a couple weeks to do them correctly and dont have spares.
jamesfreedman said:Hey Pez,
While you install your bailer check out the pics on my website about install, and see if there is anything you would add to the technique.
Yeah you guys are right, when i read pez's post i realized i was thinking of opti blades whic arent legal if they are wood.Wavedancer said:As Pez pointed out, if the wooden blades came with the boat, you can use them 'legally' (but this is moot, since you are not planning to race).
Frankenfly said:Vanguard says the wooden blades on the old Lasers are Mahogany!!
Cool.
pez said:Hey, rock on... good stuff from your website... The only thing was that my boat pre-dated lasers being shipped with auto-bailers standard, so I have no old bailer to remove, and had to drill the hole for the screw myself (I just said screw myself)...
Anyway, the only Interesting snag I came across is that the brass fitting I purchased didnt fit. The hole in the back of the cokpit was the same size as the interior diameter of the fitting I purched. So some nuances with the old boat... I looked at drilling out the cockpit hole to allow me to use the fitting, but it would be a complicated setup to get the hole drilled in the right place, so I just installed the thing in the existing hole... maybe off-season I will figure out how to drill it out without ruining something.
roshambo said:be careful... when 5200 sets up, it is forever.
.
gouvernail said:....
My solution?? I would make the hole large enough so the brass tube slides in place without driving it in place. Then smear 5200 all oveer the inside of the hule and more 5200 should be smeared all over the part of the sleeve that will live between the hull and deck. When the sleeve is pushed in place a circle of 5200 should ooze out around the entire 360 of the glange.
Another bead of 5200 should be smeared around the tube before shoving the washer in place. When the washer is shoved on the tube another circle of 5200 should ooze around it. Then turn the nut on to the sleeve until it is as tight as you can get it with your fingers.
Use a wrench or pliers to tighten the nut just a little further and then let the entire mess cure.
Your new brass sleeve reinforced hull deck joint should be slightly stronger than the original hull deck joint.
roshambo said:good point...
rubrail or soft things stand a chance of coming apart.
but... put two piecies of fibergass together with 5200...
very strong stuff
i very nearly ruined a seahood on a j22 by gluing then screwing the thing down with 5200.
had to take the hood off to add new cleats & then i was cussing myself trying to get the thing off without destroying it.
cheers