Outboard Motor or Paddle?

I just want to clarify some misconceptions about the Honda 2HP, because there is some info on this forum that suggests that it is expensive and can't be layed on it's side for transportation, which almost made me go the electric route initially.

You can lay it on it's side in the back of the truck/car -- it just has to be layed on a specific side. There is a very obvious sticker that shows you a picture of how to do it so you won't forget. Even if you do forget it doesn't seem to matter. Once when I capsized the motor was at a slightly upside-down position on the wrong side for over 30-minutes and it started right up when I righted the boat.

I bought my Honda 2HP for $450 off of Craigslist. It uses about 8oz of gas each time I use it. Honda says it has "World record fuel economy", but doesn't explain what that means. It has always started on the first or second pull and my 79-year old mother could do it. If I wanted to sell it I could get what I paid for it easily, which would probably not be the case with a used electric motor, battery, cables, and battery box.
I use a Minkota (old) trolling motor and lead acid battery in a battery box that is fitted to the deck under the rudder. Works well. I don't see the concern about weight. Also carry paddles ...just in case.
Followup results: oarlocks on old jib cars

Hi all

After close inspection it looks like the old jib cars will not stand up to being used for oarlocks without some considerable strengthening of the two parts -- the "C" shaped part that fits over the t-track was starting to loosen from the wing. My 1987 Mod One had a single screw and two spot welds, but the welds were inadequate and the screw was really not doing much to hold things together.

I switched to three bolts upside down with nylocs nuts and washers on the outside two as shown in the included pic. The bolt heads had to be shaved to fit within the center depression and this meant one of the screws holding the rail has to go though an additional hole.

Haven't used it at all since then, so I cannot report on how well this will bear up. If I continue with this setup I will augment the bolts with some reinforcement and welding. Also seems advisable to keep jib car rail removal to a minimum as each causes wear, so it would need to be over-engineered to a margin of safety.

However, these puppies snag jib sheets way too frequently, bad bulu in a heavy air gybe, and I'd like to be able to experiment with moving the jib cleet back, so I think I will move the oarlocks down into the gunwale edge.

Alternate propulsion is a neccessity and I really like rowing, so until I figure out where and how to cut and get the courage put the wack to that lovely non-skid these will remain. But I have to rate this old jib car system a fail. :mad: