Very early North American boats and European boats until about 1983: under the bow eye. European boats from about 1983, and all boats from 1992 on: plaque or sticker on the aft wall of the cockpit. Most other boats: transom. These need not to be exclusive, so North American boats since '92 have had the number both in the cockpit and as part of the HIN code on the transom.Curious where should I look for the hull number?
My brother has a sailing school and is often delivered boats for free. A boat quite derelict is a Laser, we found a dinged up daggerboard (mahogany) and have been slowly restoring it.
Was always curious about the hull number, my first Laser had the number stamped on the transom +11,000 series. That was long ago!
Curious where should I look for the hull number?
Av
So the hull number, under the bowline eye pad is 365. I have taped it off and we are going to respray the deck. Is there any database for further information, racing history and such.My brother has a sailing school and is often delivered boats for free. A boat quite derelict is a Laser, we found a dinged up daggerboard (mahogany) and have been slowly restoring it.
Was always curious about the hull number, my first Laser had the number stamped on the transom +11,000 series. That was long ago!
Curious where should I look for the hull number?
Av
i wonder if it would have been better to use epoxy resin rather than flex seal.
im discovering that although the initial buy in was inexpensive, it’s starting to become the black hole that money keeps disappear in, even for such a simple craft...
I now need battens as the old battens for the elvstrom sail doesn’t fit in the replacement sail that I got. It sailed fine without the battens, but the wind was extremely light.
1. I use West Systems 105 resin epoxy for all my repairs.
3. If the battens are long you can cut them down with a hack saw. Buy end caps or sand the sharp edges and wrap in electrical tape. If you need another set of battens you can buy stock and cut them to length. Probably cheaper than buying a set.
I mean, you have to have some winter projects now that you have a boat, right? I would let the enthusiasm from your son dictate the level and needs for the upgrades, and enjoy the remaining good sailing weather. If he starts getting real good, then you might be looking for a 2nd boat and dual trailer option like I've seen posted here before. I'm actually jealous that I didn't get the chance to show my son the joys of sailing when he was younger.
Skål!
so would I mix the 105 with 205 and inject it into the crack like I did the flex seal? would I add a filler like 406 to put into a crack like I had or just use the 105 mixed with 205 with nothing else mixed in?
I’ve never worked with fiberglass before so thats where my hesitation was and why I went with flexseal. There was nothing to mix. But ill need to work with it at some point to work on some exposed fiberglass that I think I’ll need to take care of eventually.
This makes no sense. The battens have been (as far as I know) the same from day one, and even the pockets on the latest MKIs should be the same, "classic" cut.I now need battens as the old battens for the elvstrom sail doesn’t fit in the replacement sail that I got.
This makes no sense. The battens have been (as far as I know) the same from day one, and even the pockets on the latest MKIs should be the same, "classic" cut.
Don't touch the hacksaw until you've measured them: top batten max 400 mm, the two others max 600 mm, including the end plugs.
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