I have a spare hull.. so graft in a donor patch from that? That's a way better Idea.Sounds like a lot of work!
Doesn't this call for a "shoreline" repair through the bottom? (There is some space before hitting the bottom of the cubby).
A strong repair can be made extending beyond the inside leaking point, while strengthening the keel.
Not exactendly a graft, but I'd follow shoreline's cutout of the leaky area. (Leaving about an inch and a half on each side--assuming six inches long). If i had an irretrievably-hopeless Sunfish hull, I'd cut out a piece of keel about six inches longer on each end--slightly wider--and use it to back up your (now repaired on the inside) original keel cutout segment.
Wrangle the "wetted" reinforcement donor piece inside with a layer of 8-oz cloth, and pull the two keel segments together with screws. Adjust and allow to set. Fair and paint.
For a small penalty in weight, the keel isn't going to break or leak there again!
Same! I was thinking of using a piece of angle there under neath..I usually end up sitting there when doing the 2 up..but realized pretty quick im too much of a fat ass..so I slide back a bit.Great documentary pictures. How do you like that $80 Anderson bailer?
I'd save those cut out pieces. By bonding one to the transom, I used one to greatly reinforce a replacement Sunfish rudder gudgeon on my long-sold Porpoise II.
My weight has "belabored" the deck where you accessed the leak. (Spider cracks surround my cockpit as it is). I hope that upper inspection port gives sufficient strength.
"A lot of work!"
Gravity probably won’t do that. Oh how I fervently wish that it could, but it doesn’t have that kind of weight and the surfaces probably don’t have enough roughness for Thixo to grab.I think I already said that!
A lot of work! ("work" spoken in a Homer Simpson voice).
If no tape or cloth was used, why not drill a ⅛" hole, roll underneath with a $2 hobby-shop syringe filled with prepared resin (or Thixo) squirt it in, cover with duct tape, and let gravity seal the break?
I agree..think of drywall mudding without using tape.A crack like that will not be repaired with resin alone. Cured resin is brittle without reinforcement. I stick with my post above. Do it right the first time or you will do it again and also will need to clear the previous attempt.
Correct: Offered three types of repair, with resin-only as a weekend / stop-gap (pardon the pun) measure.A crack like that will not be repaired with resin alone. Cured resin is brittle without reinforcement. I stick with my post above. Do it right the first time or you will do it again and also will need to clear the previous attempt.
thickened epoxy injected worked pretty much the entire summer and i knew it was probably not a good fix when i did it. i didnt have spare hulls kicking around and didnt want to cut into the deck just yet. so, really happy to get that out of it. didnt realize the hole through was so big though. the tension kinda squeezed the crack back together. im guessing either beaching it or maybe it bouncing on the trailer reopened it. i didnt want to trial it over the weekend, gets busy here and not interested in crowds. gonna rain through tomorrow so probably thursday. i leak tested it pretty thoroughly and no bubbles. so pretty sure its good to go now and now reinforced from inside. if not, ill pull the ports out and all the fasteners hardware and swap hulls.Correct: Offered three types of repair, with resin-only as a weekend / stop-gap (pardon the pun) measure.