New Used sunfish need some advice

[scubabuffett]

Hi Everyone. I'm new to this forum and just bought a used sunfish. From what I can tell it was most likely built in the 60's early 70s. The boat is in pretty good condition. The sail has a minor hole in it but looks ok. There are some holes in the boat. One in stern in the corner (see attached pictures). There is something messed up with the cockpit as well. It looks like it had cracked and somone tried to patch it but it has some bad seams. I think I may sand it down a bit and use some marine tech to patch up the cockpit. The cockpit doesn't leak. when I washed it the water stayed inside of it. The bailer still works as well. There's a crack near the dagerboard insert. Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix it? Or can I leave it the way that it is. There is some water getting inside the hull from some where. Does anyone recommend putting an inspection port in? If so where do you think I should put it? Many thanks for anyone's help. I can't wait to get it back in the water. I'm picking up some compound and wax tonight to get the deck looking a little cleaner.

Take care

 

[supercub]

Do not wax the deck yet, do a leak test first. Yahoo Sunfish Sailor , Vanguard, The SF Class FAQs and Tips and Tricks, and Wind Line Sails "How-To" section all have instructions for doing a leak test, Installing ports, and most repairs and other SF info). The leak test will tell if the daggerboard area crack is leaking, the stern is leaking, if the cockpit is leaking (the 3 areas you mentioned) and any other leaks. In the cockpit, it appears that the layer of fiberglass from a previous repair is letting go, remove it (as musch that is loose) and see what's what and fix what you need to. A 6" port behind the splash rail will let you fix any area around the dagger board well or mast well (do the repairs after cutting the hole, but before installing the port). A 5" port, centered 13 to 14" forward of the transom will allow acces to that area (a wood block for the rudder hardware prevents placing the port any closer to the stern). You may not be able to reach the stern hole with out removing some styrofoam (try to take it out in the largest piece possible and re-install with foam-in-a-can). Good Luck.

 

[scubabuffett]

Thanks for the tips on fixing the boat. Is it possible to use Marine tech to patch the hole in the stern? I'm thinking it may be easier. I'll do the leak test this weekend to see whats leaking. I'm planning on putting 2 inspection ports in the boat so that it can properly dry out. I'm sure theres lots of water in there since I can hear it when I tip the boat up.

Thanks again for the info.

 

[supercub]

Do yourself a favor and get the water out as soon as possible and get air flowing through the hull to dry it out completely, the repair made to a damp surface will not last. The longer you dry the hull, the better the repair will be and lighter the hull will become (ideal is about 130 lbs). You can weigh your hull by rolling it up on its side onto a bathroom scale and have some one read the scale.

Marine-Tex might work (works great on scratches and gouges), but I prefer to have a few layers of cloth with epoxy resin to bridge the opening. You may have to make the hole a little larger to bevel the hole and do a blind patch (see the repair guides at Yahoo and Vanguard). After sanding everything smooth on the exterior, give it a shot of paint to cover the epoxy to prevent the epoxy from breaking down due to UV damage. If your hull has yellowed with age, Plastic-Kotes truck and Van Color spray paint # 1560 Polar White will be a little closer than a bright white. The picture is of my '69 SF transom with the painted area circled in red. The underlined are is a little run over a thin gelcoat area (a little too much sanding).

 

[scubabuffett]

Thanks Supercub. I think its best to air it out first as well. I'll cut the holes and let it dry for a week and then see about the patching. Thanks for the advice on the patching. I think I'll take a trip to the marine store and buy some cloth and resin. Thanks again. Its very much appreciated. I'll send pics when I get it fixed back up. To my surprise the hull is pretty white and not that yellowed so I'll see what I can do with the paint if not I'll look into using the one that you recomended.

Thanks again

 

[supercub]

scuba,

Get a West Epoxy repair kit, I suggest the 6 pack (P/N 101-6 Maxi, the 101 Handi Pack only has 2). It has every thing needed - 6 resin (premeasured) packs, cloth, fillers, gloves, mixing cups and other stuff for about $27. Enough for six small repairs or use 2 (or more) packets for a little larger repair. And it stores nicely in a small package.