Okay I have come to the conclusion that the SunfishDirect conversion kit isn't. It's a hull access port, a modern rudder and gudgeon package. The re-enforcement bracket is longer than the height of the transom, so I would have to cut it down to use it at all. So with that, the drilling, and lack of appropriate hardware, it's clear that this may have been a viable kit in the past but has now drifted enough that several elements of the shipment aren't applicable.Alright! The #8 oval tops were perfect! #10 was right out.
And that bent bolt that came with the kit? NO idea what it was for, when thought I bout a bag of two replacements, hah. Turns out another bolt was in the kit to attach the tiller and rudder.
Now… WHY no nuts with the bolts for the rudder mount?! And the holes aren’t large enough for the provided bolts. This kit needs some love. So many things are off.
Transom, yes. Lazarette to me would imply an accessible storage space, for that I would say no.Is it still a transom if there is no interior area?
Thanks for the insight!I think the reason why your internal aluminum backer seems too tall is because of the wood block. The backers they get are for new boats with no wood block. Older sunfish had the wood block for attaching the deck rudder hardware. You can see it in your hole. You could shorten the backer. i have used washers on the inside to spread the load over the stern. I would cut the backer with a hacksaw as you have it, drill holes and attach. There is no wrong way as long as you spread the load.
Tops is correct, but you just need to overcoat with the proper primer if you really want to gelcoat.Ah, thanks for calling that out!
I'll take a look tomorrow. Seems the price/volume is higher than what I need for this little repair. I bought the fairing compound already, but not the gelcoat. We'll see if I find a repair-oriented product to use over it.
Okay thanks. Went ahead and ordered everything. I’ll test my technique on a piece of scrap wood, then get the hull repair underway.Tops is correct, but you just need to overcoat with the proper primer if you really want to gelcoat.
Looks nice Mitka, what did you use? Are you going to do any gelcoat now or wait? I understand you on wanting to enjoy a bit more of this season before it wraps up.Progress…
I chose Total Boat based on the feedback. Doing primer and unwaxed gelcoat today for the damaged areas. If I get my shed in order over the winter I’ll take on a repaint. If I learn that it gets waterlogged between now and then I’ll consider pulling the entire deck and replacing foam, adding hiking strap support, etc.Looks nice Mitka, what did you use? Are you going to do any gelcoat now or wait? I understand you on wanting to enjoy a bit more of this season before it wraps up.
Today was exciting! I received the rudder conversion kit and new bow handle from Sunfish Direct today. Looking forward to installing both this weekend.
No new screws with the bow handle, and the backing plate isn’t predrilled. So “kit” in quotes perhaps.
Yes, mast step repairs can be done that way. Good approach IMHO, although I never had the pleasureI'm curious if anyone who has opened up their boat for repairs, has reglassed the hole instead of installing a port? If you cut the hole with a good hole saw, it seems like it would be a fairly easy reclosure.
I have not done so with any of my ‘fish. However, I had a Sears surfwind that I bought damaged and did exactly that. I cut open a square hole in the front port side of the hull so that I could reinforce the interior and add some foam for flotation. When finished, I glassed the hole, and used the boat for several yearsI'm curious if anyone who has opened up their boat for repairs, has reglassed the hole instead of installing a port? If you cut the hole with a good hole saw, it seems like it would be a fairly easy reclosure.
Internally, the Sunfish mast step is heavily layered with fiberglass.Yes, mast step repairs can be done that way. Good approach IMHO, although I never had the pleasureof doing that.