New member w Punky SF but dreaming.... Questions ;)

[Petrel]

Hi all,

I am new to your forum and the proud owner of an absolutely punky sogged Sunfish of probably mid-1960's vintage. Brass type rudder assembly hardware and with "drain holes" to either side -- forward of the cockpit.

I didn't pay much for the boat and the mast, spars and sail seem sound. The daggerboard is ratty but functional -- although the plywood is delaminating. Ditto with the rudder.

The hull is in very sorry shape -- with multiple patches (lousy patches) and with a ragged tear puncture through the hull (starboard, aft from cockpit).
The cockpit has been patched and the bailer cap is missing and the area around the bailer has been dabbed with some sort of gummy white caulking.
One of the lateral deck drain holes is taped "shut," and the other has a metal plug but a screwdriver turns both the plug and its cylinder/housing.

I have photos but haven't familiarized myself with the photo gallery as yet.

No water came from the hull, except for some near-constant weeping. Inside the tear/puncture there looks to be blackish gop. Maybe this is rot or disintegrated foam or just gudge. The hull doesn't seem THAT heavy. My husband and I can lift it (not all that far, mind you). I'd say it's about 140 Lbs. (guess). The hull and deck are very flexible. I can fit onto it, but maybe husband should wait until repairs

My questions are:

1. Since the hull is old, patched and sogged (already), any MORE harm in my slapping duct tape or Marine Tex onto/into the hull puncture (a through-tear that is about the area of a softball) and taking "Punky" for a pond test drive to see if I want to bother doing any work on her? I know how to sail, but am just dying to get into a boat, anything that floats and has a sail.

I expect water to start filling the cockpit as well as the hull since I don't think the bailer assembly is intact or solid. Any harm to just float around this way for a short while, draining it after each sail?

2. I've read many threads on your forums archives and also read over the material that Dan offers at Windline. For now, I'd like a recreational SF/board boat and it's unlikely that I'll ever want to race.

I think I can master putting in inspection ports, bailer, and patching the puncture in the hull and already have bought some West System 2 part epoxy resin. Someone gave me a piece of fiberglass cloth. I also have some Marine Tex.

Q: Am I dreaming about trying to restore this hull (and the rudder and daggerboard)? There isn't any way I can see inside the hull right now, but a wire poked into the hull puncture seems to hit mushy blackened foam (or something only part solid).

3. Can soggy soggy foam really be dried out enough to ever used 2-part foam or epoxy to reglue as Windline describes?

4. I *was* considering opening up the hull/deck, but have seen the many warnings to not do so. Since the bottom of the hull (cockpit too) have been patched extensively (and the cloth coated with gobs of resin, not even sanded, let alone faired, gel coated or painted), should I consider doing a Gray's Anatomy "bypass" surgical incision into the hull and inspecting, drying, replacing foam?

5. Alternatively, I could buy another hull (or even, dare I say it, an Aqua Finn hull) rather than trying to un-sog the one I've got. Cosmetics and the *best* performance aren't my top criteria at this time. I mostly want the SF to play with and be able to set up myself. I also got a small used galvy trailer for it. I'll probably need to adjust the bunks to work with the SF.
Will an Aqua Finn hull work with a Sunfish sail and spars? Anyone know?

6. If the hull can be sog sailed now and refurbished later in the year (when the ocean and ponds get to cold), I'll likely make a new rudder, tiller and DB. (I've got a table saw, jab/saber saw, circular saw). Meanwhile can anyone tell me how I might best re-glue the delaminated DB and rudder? The shinny part of the laminated marine plywood ("mahogany" maybe veneer) has come loose. Should I use the West System 2-part epoxy for this or another product.

Thanks for your help. I am so eager to get onto the water and sail.

 

[DanB]

Um, maybe if you take a sample of the black stuff to your local university extension service they will get EPA to declare that a SuperFund site and give you a cleanup grant.

Sounds daunting and perhaps expensive to restore. I'm thinking this is the rare instance where you save the equipment and change the hull.

Sail it until it sinks - while you shop for a seaworthy craft.

I think the sail and mast will fit a Aqua Finn the rudder will not.

 

[blueberry]

I have an old 1969 that describe almost to yours, except that there was no cracks when I bought it 3 years ago. There is a lot of patches on my boat too but they are dry. I would suggest you to repair the crack, make an inspection port fore and aft to be able to dry the water after each outing and put good lines. About a cup of water gets inside my boat during an hour of sailing. Not bad.

Concerning the weight, my boat is about 200 pounds and it still planes well in good wind. I would not be competitive in racing but there no regatta on my lake anyway. With the two inspection ports I have made, I hope it will get under 150 pounds soon.

Making inspection ports is easy. Just follow the advice on this website. It is very important to use a new blade on your jigsaw. It will be much easier to cut the fiberglass.

Conclusion: as long your boat is safe, you will have a lot of fun even if everythig doesn't look like new.

 

[Porpoise2]

"...No water came from the hull, except for some near-constant weeping. Inside the tear/puncture there looks to be blackish gop. Maybe this is rot or disintegrated foam or just gudge. The hull doesn't seem THAT heavy. My husband and I can lift it (not all that far, mind you). I'd say it's about 140 Lbs. (guess). The hull and deck are very flexible. I can fit onto it, but maybe husband should wait until repairs ..."

The constant weeping was the problem with my hull until I removed the thoroughly-soaked "sponge" that had been the floatation. The flotation does reinforce the deck, so steps need to be taken to properly replace it or you'll end up with more cracks.

"...Any harm to just float around this way for a short while, draining it after each sail...?

It'll still be heavy, which discourages additional sailing—the worst of all worlds.

I'd store it on its side in the interim so that the weeping drains what can weep from the floatation.

If it turns "turtle", you'll be nearly invisible to the ocean-racers until you can right it.

"...For now, I'd like a recreational SF/board boat and it's unlikely that I'll ever want to race...?

It'll be slow, and "a safe boat is a fast boat".

"...Am I dreaming about trying to restore this hull (and the rudder and daggerboard)?

Not really: nearly anything can be repaired with West® epoxy. I put two 6-inch ports in, and fixed my foam problem (aft foam—only—affected). I'd start with fresh wood on the wood parts.

"...Can soggy soggy foam really be dried out enough to ever used 2-part foam or epoxy to reglue as Windline describes?

Most of my defective flotation had the consistency of a sponge. It could be squeezed out and used again and again to mop up water!

As far as looking inside, saw yourself a hole sized for a port, and peek inside. You'll see what needs doing, and go from there.

"...Thanks for your help. I am so eager to get onto the water and sail.

I'm actually envious. I broke a bone in my ankle, and the doctor says I won't be sailing for four more weeks!

(Maybe one...).